Fresh water tank emptying valve wheel jammed (1 Viewer)

[Paul Frost]

Like another poster I've struggled to find the right words to describe this. But when I've tried to close the valve after draining the tank by turning the circular wheel that connectrs to the valve/plug athe bottom of the tank it is jammed and won't turn one way or another. I can't find online any description or exploded diagram of how the part works or is fitted/repaired. I don't want to apply more force turning it in case something breaks, so understanding how it all works would help.
The attached photo shows the offending part.

 

[Paul Frost]

I have now discovered the correct name for this:
Reich tank drain with filling level limiter, https://reich-web.com/en/products/pipe-systems/tank-draining
I also found a thread on a German forum that describes the problem, some solutions and several photographs.
Sounds like it's a common issue and a poor design.
Still not sure if I can fix it or need a replacement (about £80). But at least I know what it all looks like if I take it apart.

 

[Googlebot]

I once expanded the tank by filling with a hose jammed in tight at a site where the pressure was very high. It pulled the valve apart. Thankfully I was able to put it back together.

It hasn’t jammed that way has it?

 

[Paul Frost]

It's jammed open. I'd just tried to close it so I could fill up with water ready to go away in it.

 

[Lenny HB]

You may find the connecting rod has come out and jamed I've had it happen.
If you take the knob off there is a big starlock washer under it that holds the unit in place. The star washer is a bit of a pig to get but once out you can take mechanism out and check it over and reassemble. Needs a bit of brut force to get the washer back in.

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[dalspa]

Mine broke many years ago at the top where the hand wheel attached to the long shaft/spindle. Ever since I have always closed and opened the bottom seal by turning the (square) shaft with a small spanner so as not to exert any stress on the wheel fixing. Being a keen cyclist I found that the square recess on the end of an old style multi spanner was just the right size to fit the shaft - I fitted a short length of cord to the spanner with a loop to fit over my wrist so as not to drop into the tank.

 

[stevewagner]

I found them a nuisance having to lift the carpet to open the trap. I fitted a tap at the end of the waste pipe and then left the tank tap permanently open.

 

[Minxy]

I found them a nuisance having to lift the carpet to open the trap. I fitted a tap at the end of the waste pipe and then left the tank tap permanently open.

Depends how often you do it, for us it's only at the end of each trip of 10 to 60 days, if you do it frequently, eg you have lots of weekend trips, then I can appreciate how irritating it would be.

 

[RowleyBirkinQC]

Baycott - was this the part which caused you hassle?

Edit: appears that it was…

Thread 'Hymer water drain tap problem'
https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/hymer-water-drain-tap-problem.259779/

If these mechanisms keep failing, I think I would consider getting a regular expandable plug instead.

 

[Porridge Oats]

You may find relevant info in this previous post regarding water tank plug.

Hymer water drain tap problem

Does anybody know how to remove the 'tap' mechanism on my Hymer water tank? It won't shut off and I think there is a securing clip come adrift under the white top part at the bottom.

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

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[Pausim]

I found them a nuisance having to lift the carpet to open the trap. I fitted a tap at the end of the waste pipe and then left the tank tap permanently open.

Defeats the winterisation but ok in summer. The only frost problem I ever had was the freezing of the tap on the end of the exposed drain pipe. On my Compactline the drain tap control can be reached from outside just by opening the floor hatch by the door and leaning in, I think of it as well designed but I don’t bother with carpets.

 

[Minxy]

Defeats the winterisation but ok in summer. The only frost problem I ever had was the freezing of the tap on the end of the exposed drain pipe. On my Compactline the drain tap control can be reached from outside just by opening the floor hatch by the door and leaning in, I think of it as well designed but I don’t bother with carpets.

We have the grey waste release in the same place and find it a nuisance as we have vinyl flooring over the original and rugs too plus with 3 dogs it's not ideal to have to open the door unnecessarily. Instead we leave the valve open and have a bung in the end of the pipe which can be easily removed and refitted although I may upgrade it to a tap at some point.

As for the fresh water tank valve, you do have to be careful as the bar is easily dislodged from the 'bung' if you turn it too much.

 

[Paul Frost]

It was -3 degrees here this morning so I'm waiting for it to warm up before I try taking it apart.

 

[Paul Frost]

The good news is that nothing was broken.
I took it all apart and when I put it back together it all worked fine.
My conclusion is that I had undone it too far, and the thread of the bung had come out of the thread in the tank. The tight fitting of the rod that goes from the turning wheel down to the bung meant that the thread of the bung couldn't start to engage with the thread of the tank. If I had applied a bit more force I might have managed to re-engage the thread, but I could also have damaged the thread.
I applied a bit of vaseline to the threads just in case that helps. I have also added some markings on the wheel and around it, so now I can more accuratly see how far I've turned it. This should prevent me from undoing it too far again.

I didn't try and remove the big starlock washer after removing the wheel, I unscrewed the mounting plate that clamps it to the top of the tank by holding the inside nut with my fingers and using a large set of plumbing pliers on the top.

 

[pj650]

Nice one Paul. I have exactly the same problem.
Will sort it tomorrow. Thanks.

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[The Framer]

The good news is that nothing was broken.
I took it all apart and when I put it back together it all worked fine.
My conclusion is that I had undone it too far, and the thread of the bung had come out of the thread in the tank. The tight fitting of the rod that goes from the turning wheel down to the bung meant that the thread of the bung couldn't start to engage with the thread of the tank. If I had applied a bit more force I might have managed to re-engage the thread, but I could also have damaged the thread.
I applied a bit of vaseline to the threads just in case that helps. I have also added some markings on the wheel and around it, so now I can more accuratly see how far I've turned it. This should prevent me from undoing it too far again.

I didn't try and remove the big starlock washer after removing the wheel, I unscrewed the mounting plate that clamps it to the top of the tank by holding the inside nut with my fingers and using a large set of plumbing pliers on the top.

View attachment 720189 View attachment 720190

Very Helpful to see how it works.
My problem is that the water drains as a dribble - Do you think its the same problem?