Electrics Spaghetti Help :) Timberland

[Tombola]

My son acquired a 2003 Timberland independence and we are in the process of re doing all the electrics, of which some leave me astounded as to how timberland installed them and subsequent additions. Though yes it was 2003 I suppose.
Ill post as I go all the pics of the supposed Timberland quality, but am a little stuck on these 2 things if anone can take a look at the pics please.
Does the little box of tricks attached look like it controls the Omni step?
and could this relay operate the charge from the cab to the leisure batteries, Ive tried to check the amps in and out with it connected and not connected but dont see a change.
Ideally Id like to stop the charge when i eventually find the cable (i dont know if it has a VSR or not) and completely just add a b2b linked direct from the cab to the hab, and Im concerned I don't create a "loop" between the 2. Im thinking to test/remove each connection from the cab one by one to see what the charge stops? would that be best ?

Removed 2 under seat lead 90ah batteries
we are adding 200ah lithium in the hab (not under seat)
Another 180 solar on top of the 160 already on
Victron Smart b2b (ill have questions about the wiring for that soon enough)
Victron Smart MPPT
Victron Blue smart charger
Renogy UPS Inverter 2000w
Fuse box (all inline atm through basic choc blocks)
Change the lights to LEDS
and all the other ancillary things like 12v and usb sockets etc.

Everything existing in the van works ok, but the original & additions wiring is a nightmare, looks like Appuljack have added another control panel, with half the panel not controlling anything. and others after them just chopped in here and there, with varying additions.

Im thinking of chopping all the exisiting wiring out where it seems to enter off at where it goes behind the side wall and then just testing each cable and see what equipment it controls. (fingers crossed job). Then add to a fuse box and tidy/label it all up.

I have re done 3 vans now, with all the same equipment as virtually separate systems, but this is a mess I am struggling with and to think of the best way to go about it, testing, checking, switching on, does it work yadda yadda.

Im just glad I can post here on this great resource, as Im sure there will be many questions.

 

[Just smiffy]

Electrics not really my thing but bumps you up….

 

[Lenny HB]

The box does look like it could be the step control, the electronics in it may be a voltage sensing circuit to retract the step when the engine starts. What is the chip in it?.

The relay could be split charge or fridge.

 

[Jev88]

It's got enough connections for a step controller. Engine over ride, magnetic sensor, power, earth and sometimes a small light that illuminates when opening (or does on mine).

 

[autorouter]

and could this relay operate the charge from the cab to the leisure batteries, Ive tried to check the amps in and out with it connected and not connected but dont see a change.

The relay will have two coil connectors (for triggering it on and off) - 85 and 86. It will have two power connectors - one to 30 and the other to 87. Probably 87b is unused.

If it's the split charge relay, then one of the power connector wires will go to the starter battery (via a fuse) and the other will go to the leisure battery (via a fuse). If you measure the voltages you should be able to tell which is which, because the voltages will be slightly different. You could pull the fuses to confirm this.

If it's a fridge relay, one of the power connector wires will go to the starter battery (via a fuse) as before. But the other will go to the fridge, so you won't see a voltage on that wire.

The coil contacts 85 and 86 will use the D+ signal, which is about 12V when the engine is running, and about zero when the engine is stopped.

About the rewiring - you could add two fuseboxes. One with Midi fuses acting like a positive busbar. A second fusebox with standard blade fuses for the habitation devices. Maybe a 6 or 12 way type, with integrated negative busbar. That makes it easier if you are wiring both positive and negative, which often happens in motorhomes.

Mega & Midi Fuse Power Distribution Box

Compact power distribution & fuse box that distributes power theough a single mega link fuse into 4 midi or strip link fuses.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Standard Blade Fuse Box With Positive & Negative Busbars - 12 Way

12 way standard blade fuse box with 2 positive buses & 1 negative bus. The -ve bus is useful for marine applications to common cables back to the battery -ve.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

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[Tombola]

Thanks for prev replies all, there will be more questions to come

Ive not been too well so didnt get back to this as soon as Id like But I have now got all front seats and flooring back in and new wiring in place from one side of van to the other where the spaghetti is. (not all connected up yet thats gonna be another story ) but I do have another question, the step is out,(due to me having wires out all over the place and must have lost a loose one somewhere)

I want to get the step in, by using a 12v connection just so I can start the van without the open step buzzer sounding can I just temp connect to the part Ive circled in the omnistore controller a 12v supply + and - ?

is the "out and in" circled below the previously working 12 connection (that I seem to have been lost for now on the other side of the van (spaghetti) or maybe use 2 of the connections right at the switch?

it is a slide in and out cassette job, that was working ok (needs a little lubricated TLC as usual)
thanks in advance

ce

 

[berni109]

Connectors 6 &7 are going to be the power to the step motor.

 

[autorouter]

It looks to me like you could just short 2 and 3 together to make the step go in. Maybe with a small screwdriver. Only connect long enough to move the step back in, then disconnect straightaway. I presume the proper switch is one of those that springs back to off when you release it.

To get the step out you could short 1 and 3, which is not so easy, you'd need a piece of wire or a pair of scissors.

 

[Tombola]

presume the proper switch is one of those that springs back to off when you release it.

Yep that's the one.
Thanks

 

[Tombola]

Riiiiiiight that makes sense.
4 and 5 are constant power in
123 switched in or out,

5 and 6 the power to the motor

Thanks I'll give them a go tomorrow

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[Tombola]

Thanks for the help so far, as it happens the information above regarding the "step" was actually for the omnistore awning in the end ooops.

BUT, I have these wires to the switch for the step that is out at the moment and Im trying to retract it, it doesnt have a relay for when ignition starts but a warning buzzer. And the 2nd fitted apuljack control panel has to be on "van" electrics for the switch to work, and I can't trace which one goes to the panel or if the panel is faulty. https://www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk/AE-Big-Square-Panel-12-Button__p-876.aspx

BUT so i can retract the step for now, can I just add 12v across 2 of these wires? in the switch,

thanks

 

[autorouter]

There are different ways of wiring the retractor switch, but this one looks like two red/black pairs: one pair coming from the supply Pos and Neg, the other pair going to the motor. The switch applies the supply in one direction or the other to power the motor in or out.

The problem is finding which red/black pair is the motor, and which the supply. To check this, first check for voltage across each pair. The motor should show zero volts, the supply pair could show anything, maybe zero, maybe 12V, maybe a random voltage in between. Once you have found the pair that shows zero volts, measure the resistance by switching to the lowest ohms range. The motor pair should show a low resistance. The supply pair, if it's zero volts, should show a high resistance. If it's not zero volts, don't measure it on the ohms range, it will give a false reading anyway if there's a voltage present.

Having found the motor pair, you could apply 12V to it. One way will extend the step, reversing the polarity will retract the step. In fact you could apply the 12V to the supply terminals of the switch, and use the switch to extend and retract the step.

 

[Tombola]

There are different ways of wiring the retractor switch, but this one looks like two red/black pairs: one pair coming from the supply Pos and Neg, the other pair going to the motor. The switch applies the supply in one direction or the other to power the motor in or out.

The problem is finding which red/black pair is the motor, and which the supply. To check this, first check for voltage across each pair. The motor should show zero volts, the supply pair could show anything, maybe zero, maybe 12V, maybe a random voltage in between. Once you have found the pair that shows zero volts, measure the resistance by switching to the lowest ohms range. The motor pair should show a low resistance. The supply pair, if it's zero volts, should show a high resistance. If it's not zero volts, don't measure it on the ohms range, it will give a false reading anyway if there's a voltage present.

Having found the motor pair, you could apply 12V to it. One way will extend the step, reversing the polarity will retract the step. In fact you could apply the 12V to the supply terminals of the switch, and use the switch to extend and retract the step.

Brilliant, just what I needed, thanks.

Its a long process, and Ill be back with more, appreciate it