EBT+ for weatherproofing external bullfinch shower install?

MisterB

LIFE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Posts
7,220
Likes collected
17,211
Location
Essex
Funster No
52,564
MH
Adria 670 SLT
Exp
enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
Just about to install an external shower point. Any thoughts on using EBT+ (made by sika) to seal it (and fix) it has a rubber gasket already and screws to hold it in place but it seems EBT+ will add to the fixing and waterproofing.
 
when i said just about to .... i really do mean just about to .... LOL

ok, i will use the EBT+ - it can always come off again ....
 
Upvote 0
Fitted, now just need to connect up tomorrow. I added a 'backplate' in 9mm ext ply so I could use longer screws and not just rely on the 'sticky stuff' and some small self tappers. I added the backplate as there will be some twisting and turning motion as I attach and remove the shower hose and head, and thought it will make it a lot more secure to counteract that movement.

Just 3d printing a facia cover just to tidy up the hole in the ply, totally unnecessary but it makes me happy (unless it looks crap, in which case I won't fit it!)

For those thinking of fitting one, it's a 60mm hole !!



IMG_20230527_150603.jpg
IMG_20230527_150608.jpg
IMG_20230527_150647.jpg
IMG_20230527_162848.jpg
 
Upvote 0
I also used JG 15mm to 12mm reducers that incorporate isolation valves on mine.
 
Upvote 0
I also used JG 15mm to 12mm reducers that incorporate isolation valves on mine.
Thanks, where did you get them from?
 
Upvote 0
We have two bullfinch connectors in our van - one external and one in the bathroom. Have had problems with both of them regarding the non-return valves. Both of them have frozen and damaged the NRV's by distorting them so there was reduced / no flow. They are easily removed by prising out with a small screwdriver. The shower flow rate is improved and now possible to drain down the internal lines. The photos attached show the frost damage, the removed NRV's and the fitting with the NRV's removed.

IMG-0166.jpg IMG-0168.jpg IMG-0169.jpg
 
Upvote 0
We have two bullfinch connectors in our van - one external and one in the bathroom. Have had problems with both of them regarding the non-return valves. Both of them have frozen and damaged the NRV's by distorting them so there was reduced / no flow. They are easily removed by prising out with a small screwdriver. The shower flow rate is improved and now possible to drain down the internal lines. The photos attached show the frost damage, the removed NRV's and the fitting with the NRV's removed.

View attachment 760533 View attachment 760534 View attachment 760535
Wish I had known that yesterday as the NRV's would have been easier to remove before I fitted the external shower BUT thanks for sharing as it might help someone else.
 
Upvote 0
Thanks, where did you get them from?

Just rechecked and they’re JG slimline push fit 15mm isolation valves from my local Plumb Center branch, and JG 15mm x 12mm straight reducers from Amazon supplier Oasis Caravan & Camping - only place I could find them.
 
Upvote 0
Just rechecked and they’re JG slimline push fit 15mm isolation valves from my local Plumb Center branch, and JG 15mm x 12mm straight reducers from Amazon supplier Oasis Caravan & Camping - only place I could find them.
Thanks, I was having difficulty locating a 15mm F to 12mm M elbow which is what I wanted to use. I was surprised when you said you had 15 - 12mm fittings that incorporated isolation valves.
Searching for them however was really helpful as I didn't realise you can get a four way 'branch' 12mm fitting as that would seem to fit my pipework layout perfectly, allowing me to remove an existing 'tee' and keep existing pipework in its original configuration and not cut into the existing pipework.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Upvote 0
Nice job. Had an external shower that was coach fitted at time of build. Hardly used in 12 years, but then I don’t have a pet to rinse down. Found mine always ran too hot, no matter what I would do to cool the water.
 
Upvote 0
Wish I had known that yesterday as the NRV's would have been easier to remove before I fitted the external shower BUT thanks for sharing as it might help someone else.
The brass bit just fits into the housing - 2 screws from the front . Two persons make it easier to line up the screws when refitting.
 
Upvote 0
Finished (well nearly but it's all working - I will get a four way joint and replace the tee on the hot water) and all working.

I was tempted to fit the whole lot inside the locker, but having read reports re dribbling when you release the shower hose, I'm glad I didn't. It doesn't dribble a lot but it would definitely annoy me and why allow water to 'escape' inside the motorhome ?

IMG_20230528_143118.jpg


I also changed the facia I printed to just two holes instead of a slot, it just looks neater.

IMG_20230528_143129.jpg
 
Upvote 0
We have two bullfinch connectors in our van - one external and one in the bathroom. Have had problems with both of them regarding the non-return valves. Both of them have frozen and damaged the NRV's by distorting them so there was reduced / no flow. They are easily removed by prising out with a small screwdriver. The shower flow rate is improved and now possible to drain down the internal lines. The photos attached show the frost damage, the removed NRV's and the fitting with the NRV's removed.

View attachment 760533 View attachment 760534 View attachment 760535
Hi,
Our external shower point has never worked apart from a dribble, this looks like a possible solution.
Are all those bits parts that are removed? Just wondering if I can remove the valves in situ....
 
Upvote 0
Hi,
Our external shower point has never worked apart from a dribble, this looks like a possible solution.
Are all those bits parts that are removed? Just wondering if I can remove the valves in situ....
I'm sure you can

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Upvote 0
How about printing a plate the same size as the whole ply piece with 9mm walls so that it caps over the entire ply? That would look even more professional 👍
 
Upvote 0
I'm sure you can
Having now done the job, it appears that in my case it was a case of removing the whole unit. The pipes were quite short with maybe 6" between elbows and the back of the unit. Once I got the push fit connections parted I was able to remove the unit from the outside and get the valves out.
All working fine now. Great tip, thanks!
 
Upvote 0
How about printing a plate the same size as the whole ply piece with 9mm walls so that it caps over the entire ply? That would look even more professional 👍
My print bed wouldn't print that size, I did try doing it but I think it's because the sensor is over the edge of the bed. Printer is a Creater Ender 5 Pro
If I get the time I will have a play with it because I agree it would look even better. I could print it as a box so it covered the sides aswell. I know I can prob do it in two prints but I am a complete novice in 3d printing and am only using free software (tinkercad)

Always willing to learn if anyone can help me improve .....
 
Upvote 0
My print bed wouldn't print that size, I did try doing it but I think it's because the sensor is over the edge of the bed. Printer is a Creater Ender 5 Pro
If I get the time I will have a play with it because I agree it would look even better. I could print it as a box so it covered the sides aswell. I know I can prob do it in two prints but I am a complete novice in 3d printing and am only using free software (tinkercad)

Always willing to learn if anyone can help me improve .....
I only started at Christmas time. I've found the printing to be the easy part. Learning the 3d cad is very time consuming and I used to regularly use 3d kitchen design software. An easy fix is to look for something similar on Thingyverse and just resize it using your slicing software. It's worked for several items for me. 👍
 
Upvote 0
Example. 4 different sized individualIMG20230529161050.jpg remote holders all from the same .STL file.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Upvote 0
I only started at Christmas time. I've found the printing to be the easy part. Learning the 3d cad is very time consuming and I used to regularly use 3d kitchen design software. An easy fix is to look for something similar on Thingyverse and just resize it using your slicing software. It's worked for several items for me. 👍
Thanks, I have done that but I enjoy doing it from scratch as I learn more that way (but tend to forget everything pretty quickly)
There are a lot of great sites for files, I prefer the free ones lol
 
Upvote 0

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top