easycool es-2500 air con...need inverter

oscar1toby

oscar1toby

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Kontiki 645
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I'm a newbie....brand spanking newbie....lock down can't go anywhere newbie....MH virgin...
Hi everyone....very new to MH...bought 2003 kontiki 645 mid Feb...total lock down mid March...all about timing. Quick question. MH has a Waeco Easycool ES-2500 air con unit with all wiring installed as well as the charging current distributor....only item missing is the inverter (I assume either the previous owner or dealer has removed it)

Need advise with what pure wave I need to replace it...go easy on me as I am a newbie and bruise easily lol
 
Could it be that it's designed to run only on hook up on camp sites?
 
No....all the wiring etc is there minus one inverter....they've had it away...it runs on hook up but need it running with engine as well.
 
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Goodluck
 
The above post explains it very well.

If you want to go down the Inverter route, and assuming there isn't a 'Bespoke' unit giving you exactly what you require you are looking at an Inverter with a capacity of 2000w contant, 4000w peak.

So far, so good, However???? (There's always a however)

When your Air Con is 'On' and working you will need a Battery Bank that is capable of providing 133 amp/hrs
ie 1600 watts divided by 12 volts. That's just for the Air Con.

As a battery becomes basically a very heavy paperweight and useful for not much else if it it run down to 50% of it's capacity, you will therefore also need a battery bank of at least 270 amps (and preferably much more) to be able to run the aircon for One Hour and, if you are not connected to EHU, you will require an array of solar on the roof equivalent that seen in a reasonable sized farmers field to get the 133 amps back into the batteries.

If my back of a fag packet calculations are incorrect I apologise. It may be that the previous owner has had the Inverter away, but I would doubt, unless there is a large capacity of Batteries in the boot and an array of Big Sized Solar on the roof, that the Air Con was used with an Inverter.

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That’s about the size of it. It’s not really an option to run it through an inverter.
 
To run that AC, you would need a min 200ah LiFePo4 and a 2kw inverter. As others mentioned already, and forget Pb, lead batts, the voltage sag will be massive, under a 130-140A draw. Unless you got over 1kw of panels, lead won’t cut it. LiFePo4 will be better choice, providing you will have the means to recharge.
 
oscar1toby said:
No....all the wiring etc is there minus one inverter....they've had it away...it runs on hook up but need it running with engine as well.
Click to expand...
So do you mean you want it to work whilst you are driving?
 
oscar1toby said:
Hi everyone....very new to MH...bought 2003 kontiki 645 mid Feb...total lock down mid March...all about timing. Quick question. MH has a Waeco Easycool ES-2500 air con unit with all wiring installed as well as the charging current distributor....only item missing is the inverter (I assume either the previous owner or dealer has removed it)

Need advise with what pure wave I need to replace it...go easy on me as I am a newbie and bruise easily lol
Click to expand...
What you have is an AC/DC Kit, now know as a DC Kit 2, 3 or 4

The original inverter in the AC/DC Kit was a PP (Perfect Power) 2000 Modified Sine wave inverter

The distribution switch allows the inverter to run from alternator/engine battery and leisure battery, but will measure the voltage, and automatically disconnect them should the voltage reach the set voltage ( there is a selection switch on the front) meaning the alternator only runs off of the leisure battery to preserve critical electrical equipment

the PP2000 inverter was turn on and off by this, so you could install a different inverter, you would physically have to turn it on and off whilst driving

Installed correctly a decent size wire would have been used making it a good on road battery to battery charging system, and the original split charge would have been unplugged, which is why it was probably been left in situ when the inverter went wrong
 
eddievanbitz said:
What you have is an AC/DC Kit, now know as a DC Kit 2, 3 or 4

The original inverter in the AC/DC Kit was a PP (Perfect Power) 2000 Modified Sine wave inverter

The distribution switch allows the inverter to run from alternator/engine battery and leisure battery, but will measure the voltage, and automatically disconnect them should the voltage reach the set voltage ( there is a selection switch on the front) meaning the alternator only runs off of the leisure battery to preserve critical electrical equipment

the PP2000 inverter was turn on and off by this, so you could install a different inverter, you would physically have to turn it on and off whilst driving

Installed correctly a decent size wire would have been used making it a good on road battery to battery charging system, and the original split charge would have been unplugged, which is why it was probably been left in situ when the inverter went wrong
Click to expand...

eddievanbitz You left me at "What you have is an AC/DC Kit" :LOL:

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Emmit said:
The above post explains it very well.

If you want to go down the Inverter route, and assuming there isn't a 'Bespoke' unit giving you exactly what you require you are looking at an Inverter with a capacity of 2000w contant, 4000w peak.

So far, so good, However???? (There's always a however)

When your Air Con is 'On' and working you will need a Battery Bank that is capable of providing 133 amp/hrs
ie 1600 watts divided by 12 volts. That's just for the Air Con.

As a battery becomes basically a very heavy paperweight and useful for not much else if it it run down to 50% of it's capacity, you will therefore also need a battery bank of at least 270 amps (and preferably much more) to be able to run the aircon for One Hour and, if you are not connected to EHU, you will require an array of solar on the roof equivalent that seen in a reasonable sized farmers field to get the 133 amps back into the batteries.

If my back of a fag packet calculations are incorrect I apologise. It may be that the previous owner has had the Inverter away, but I would doubt, unless there is a large capacity of Batteries in the boot and an array of Big Sized Solar on the roof, that the Air Con was used with an Inverter.
Click to expand...
The OP said to run it with the engine running so I take that as while driving, the calculation for battery bank size is not really the big issue as the alternator has to supply the majority of the required current to the inverter, that of course brings up other questions re alternator and its wiring through to the Leisure batts and inverter.

Martin
 
funflair said:
The OP said to run it with the engine running so I take that as while driving, the calculation for battery bank size is not really the big issue as the alternator has to supply the majority of the required current to the inverter, that of course brings up other questions re alternator and its wiring through to the Leisure batts and inverter.

Martin
Click to expand...
That is all upgraded as part of the AC/DC installation
 
Yep...correct...just want to run aircon when driving or when on hook up. 2 x new Numax DC Cyclic leisure batteries fitted as well as the engine battery. Looks like it was all pro fitted but like I said someones had the inverter away....probably the MH company I purchased it from...Prestige Motorhomes nr Harrogate.
 
The inverter kits for waeco/domestic are an eye watering 1500quid.
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Good luck

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I had a Waeco PP2000 in one of my vans. Good piece of kit tbf with mains priority.
 
Last Big Dealership I worked at people were having either LPG, Petrol or Diesel Generators fitted with the exhaust going out of the floor { in the garage }.
Air Con Units have a BIG Surge requirement.
I had a 900W air con unit in My Burstner Garage and a 2KW inverter wouldn't make it work.
EHU yes, inverter no.
 
AC/DC kit is what we wear and its private and NOT for sharing :LOL:

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If you want aircon on the move it might be more cost effective to get afterfit cab aircon. I don't know as I've never done it.
I have been motorhoming round Europe since Noah was a cabin boy and have never felt the need for anything other than cab aircon. The hab aircon is not very useful unless you're going to use sites all the time, and in practice we're not usually in the van much during the day if the weathers good.
 
*Machzoneman* said:
Last Big Dealership I worked at people were having either LPG, Petrol or Diesel Generators fitted with the exhaust going out of the floor { in the garage }.
Air Con Units have a BIG Surge requirement.
I had a 900W air con unit in My Burstner Garage and a 2KW inverter wouldn't make it work.
EHU yes, inverter no.
Click to expand...

The cabin top Electrolux 3000 unit on my boat took 29 Amps to start up!
 
From what I found online its been replaced with the more reliable PP2002

Waeco - TCS Chandlery

A wide selection of high quality products from Waeco.
www.tcschandlery.co.uk www.tcschandlery.co.uk

Think first one is an eu version

www.jacksonsleisure.com

Dometic Waeco Perfect Power 2000W 2kw 12V Modified Sine Wave Inverter

The Dometic Waeco Perfect Power PP 2002 12v Inverter with its high peak output and modified AC voltage provides 2000 watts of continuous power for use with especially powerful appliances.
www.jacksonsleisure.com www.jacksonsleisure.com
 
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But it won't work within the set up that the OP has.

I used to be on the tools in those days and personally and as a Company we have fitted loads of the original AC/DC kits.
 
Fair enough, you will know more than most having fitted them before :notworthy2:

The OP said he was just missing the inverter. Bit cheaper than the £1500 he mentioned.

If that setup won't work then he'll have to open the window like the rest of us ?

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Forget about the inbuilt inverter/12v wiring side.
Locate the hookup supply wire and fit an inverter to that with an auto change-over switch and a heavy duty relay triggered by the alternator D+ terminal plus heavy wiring to the starter battery.
Simplicity is best.
 
Sounds a good solution.. Also means you can have a decent sine inverter for the rest of your sockets etc rather than the waeco modiifed sine one and should be cheaper.
 
He would be better leaving it well alone. I bet that the inverter went pop, loads did. The owner had found out that the set up would only run the A/C on low power, for short periods of time, before the low voltage sensor turned the A/C off, (which is why it has to be the right inverter if he wants to use the existing set upP So the owner, said to someone like me "What would you do?"

I would have suggested leaving the power sharing set up in place, which is after all a Battery To Battery charger and a hugely more efficient than the 30 amp split charge relay cable tied to the clutch cable, under the bonnet, to the right of the engine battery (Go on, I dare you look!) and bin the inverter which was dedicated for the A/C only so a waste of time.

It wasn't one of Dometic finest ideas
 
pappajohn said:
Forget about the inbuilt inverter/12v wiring side.
Locate the hookup supply wire and fit an inverter to that with an auto change-over switch and a heavy duty relay triggered by the alternator D+ terminal plus heavy wiring to the starter battery.
Simplicity is best.
Click to expand...
Do you mean the mains hook up wire?
 
pappajohn said:
Forget about the inbuilt inverter/12v wiring side.
Locate the hookup supply wire and fit an inverter to that with an auto change-over switch and a heavy duty relay triggered by the alternator D+ terminal plus heavy wiring to the starter battery.
Simplicity is best.
Click to expand...
That’s not how you fit an auto changeover

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