E10 petrol to be introduced soon.

chasper

chasper

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Ilfracombe, UK
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Adria Compact SLS
Exp
2004
Anyone here worried about the introduction of E10 petrol and the use in older vehicles? I have a 1965 Honda C95 which may damage the rubber seals and hoses including carburetor. Apparently my 1999 BMW R1100S should be ok according to the government website which advises whether vehicles are ok using E10. Probably have to use the higher octane stuff.
 
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Shell super V or whatever it’s called this week for my 93 Eunos Roadster, £1.50 a litre 😳
 
Yes if you have an old machine with rubber seals they may dissolve, later engines with synthetic seals should be ok. My 1968 50cc 2 stroke Suzuki which has run on paraffin will now have over octane fuel wasted on it. The E stands for ethanol which will also weaken plastic fuel lines.
Also affects older motor mowers, beware people beware!
 
I had to convert the fuel pipes and carb jetting on my 40's and 50's motorbikes when 5% ethanol was first introduced 10 ( or more ?) years ago.

More here from last Saturday with link to compatibility check website...
Broken Link Removed
 
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I guess my 1976 Suzuki GT380 will need some other fuel?

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For those of you running classics ( not as every day rides ) there is a simple was to remove the ethanol

I have tried it for the old 'racing peds' that are used at the Bash.. Works a treat !
Obviously a bit impractical for a daily ride but good for a bike that only comes out on high days and holidays

 
Just picking up on this thread. I was slightly interested in a classic car but there is obviously a big problem with this E10 petrol as it seams to be quite a lot of work to change out all the hoses, seals and other components that will be effected by it. Add in the fact that the E5 petrol will only be available for another 5 years. Has anyone thought of any other practical way around this problem by perhaps adding some additive or is it a case of biting the bullet and having to change out all the likely to be effected parts.

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I run classic vehicles that are at least 60 years old and it's no big deal to change fuel pipes and plastic/nylon filter if applicable. Never had to change any seals in the mechanicals or in the fuel system. Fibreglass petrol tanks will slowly soften and dissolve. Classic vehicle carb manufacturers have been supplying ethanol-proof bits for their carbs for about fifteen years - ever since unleaded became unavailable.
Most 97 octane fuel is ethanol free (except in parts of West Cornwall and parts of Scotland ISTR).
Additives are available for ethanol fuel but I've not used any.
 
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Spriddler said:
I run classic vehicles that are at least 60 years old and it's no big deal to change fuel pipes and plastic/nylon filter if applicable. Never had to change any seals in the mechanicals or in the fuel system. Fibreglass petrol tanks will slowly soften and dissolve. Classic vehicle carb manufacturers have been supplying ethanol-proof bits for their carbs for about fifteen years - ever since unleaded became unavailable.
Most 97 octane fuel is ethanol free (except in parts of West Cornwall and parts of Scotland ISTR).
Additives are available for ethanol fuel but I've not used any.
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Thanks for that. I know someone selling a classic car and was interested to know what would be required to keep it running. The carbs were one thing I was concerned about but seems not likely to be a problem from your reply.
 
Borderland said:
Has anyone thought of any other practical way around this problem by perhaps adding some additive or is it a case of biting the bullet and having to change out all the likely to be effected parts.
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Use high octane fuel V-power as an example or use an additive. There will be more and more on the market soon I should think.
 
Borderland said:
Thanks for that. I know someone selling a classic car and was interested to know what would be required to keep it running. The carbs were one thing I was concerned about but seems not likely to be a problem from your reply.
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I've fitted kits for SU, Zenith and AMAL carbs and no doubt kits for others are available.
There are classic car club websites with Forums where you would be able to get advice on a specific car as it's a common question.
Once the vulnerable components have been replaced with ethanol-proof bits the main problem with old vehicles that aren't used regularly is that fuel evaporates from the carb leaving a gooey residue that obstructs the jets. It helps to fit a tap in the petrol delivery pipe close to the carbs so that you can turn it off and then run the engine to use up the petrol in the carbs.

EDIT - The carb(s) may need tuning (just a bit of twiddling or jet replacement, a simple enough job) for E10 or running with the weaker ethanol mixture may damage the piston(s). I've not had to do that but a couple of chums have on high compression/sports engines.
 
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I’ve just been to fill my car but the local garage has no E5 left so had to go to a main road garage and fill with ultimate unleaded £1.56 a ltr that stung what a rip off 🤬

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The energy content of ethanol is about 33% less than pure unleaded... economy varies depending on the amount of denaturant that is added to the ethanol. In general, vehicle fuel economy may decrease by about 3% when using E10”.
 

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