E&P Levelling jacks

Why not just tape a note across the steering wheel. "Levelling jacks locked down and system disabled - do not drive". Visible from outside the door and should be enough to make a prospective thief think "Oh, cr@p".
 
Interesting - where is that fuse located? Does it lose it's calibration with that fuse removed?

The fuse on the E&P system is mounted by the hydraulic pump which in most cases the pump unit is mounted under the van. Removing the fuse does not lose the calibration that I have noticed. The E&P brain box comes pre-calibrated for level from the factory and is adjusted if needed when the system if fitted and tested.
 
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I struggle to understand why E & P front legs are behind the engine, not at each end like the Gliderite, surely the latter gives more stability.
Having the legs closer together gives more ability to level with a shorter stroke.
You could say the same reason van builders do not fit the wheels on the corner of vehicles.
 
Having the legs closer together gives more ability to level with a shorter stroke.
You could say the same reason van builders do not fit the wheels on the corner of vehicles.
And a stronger bit of chassis, in front of the front suspension does not need to be as sturdy.

Martin

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When I had the E&P system on mine if I was leaving the van on the drive I just pulled the fuse by the hydraulics and kept it inside the house. The chances of anybody finding the fuse holder and replacing it was slim. The people at E&P told me that this was another little security feature to use if needed.
Why not fit a hidden switch in series with the fuse.
 
It
I struggle to understand why E & P front legs are behind the engine, not at each end like the Gliderite, surely the latter gives more stability.
It gives you more height to level out, especially when on a slope.
 
Anybody know the cost of having the touchscreen retro-fitted?
 
Anybody know the cost of having the touchscreen retro-fitted?
You dont need the touch screen, just the app and your phone and the WiFi box.
Here is an install from a German forum.
Hi

everyone , the weather is not so good this weekend that I would drive out the Mobi but I was also curious and then tried the new WiFi box with the car in the carport. Here is the report:

1. Installation:
The connection of the box was very easy. As expected, I just had to change that.

So I installed the "normal" control panel in my flair. It is behind a flap in the entrance area, so that you do not normally see it but still get well: The panel can be easily removed and then remove the cable that comes from the control unit:





Then the cable is plugged into the wifi box and the box and the panel are connected with the supplied cable. Already the installation is finished. Total took only 2 minutes. Of course, for the aesthetic design, the cable still has to be hidden and the box screwed on, but that's not a big topic anymore. 2. Usage: The system funzt! The operation is 100% intuitive. The device works right away (no, not quite true, I had to reset the box once briefly, so that the code is activated, ie once in accordance with the manual 5 sec. Press the button and it was good). How the app works:








First, the smartphone (goes with iPod or iPad, Android tablet, I have not tried) connected to the box and entered the password. The box is recognized as a hotspot and can then be selected. This is the start screen. You can choose between manual or automatic leveling. Furthermore, there is a button for the settings in the top right corner: If you select the automatic mode, a screen appears. which displays the 4 jacks and a dragonfly in the middle. At the bottom of the screen are the buttons "Home Screen", "Retract Columns", "Automatic Leveling" and "Tank Drainage Position".






If you then select the automatic leveling, the system starts and the respective active columns are highlighted in yellow. When finished, the system will turn all the supports red again and the bubble will show the horizontal position of the vehicle: during leveling, the process can be stopped at any time (see middle picture).




In manual mode you can extend the supports in pairs. The supports always ride as long as the respective button is pressed. Unfortunately, I forgot to try out whether this is like the control panel or the FB with the comfort function that the system automatically stops when the horizontal leveling is reached. However, I suspect that the controller is designed for this because the mW is programmed through the controller rather than the keypad. Finally, there is a settings menu in which the password can be changed and you can calibrate the individual leveling positions. You can also set your preferred language. Available are German, English, French, Italian, Dutch and Swedish.





So, that was it in all "brevity".

A perhaps important clue yet. I also tried if the system has a good range. From 20 meters away, I could still appeal to the box perfectly. Next I have not tried it but for practice that is certainly sufficient.

All in all, really great the part. I am totally satisfied and can recommend the retrofitting.
 
I struggle to understand why E & P front legs are behind the engine, not at each end like the Gliderite, surely the latter gives more stability.
Because E&P know what they are doing, whereas I don't think GlideRite had a clue.
Not only can you accommodate greater slopes if the front rams are placed behind the front wheels but they will share the load better with the rear rams. In the example shown, the front rams will have have very little weight to lift, leaving the rear ones to do all the work.

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Wire the handbrake switch to a switch that is semi concealed on the dash instead of the handbrake. Wire buzzer to switch and ign live so if switch is on (handbrake on) and ignition is turned on... buzzer sounds. Fixes all problems.
 
That was yesterday, how long do you think my memory is?:D2

Like mine a good full yard, or in my case as long as two short planks::bigsmile::fubar:

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