Dometic RM 8505 stuck on battery mode

Robert2891

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Challenger Genesis 4
Hi, we went away over Christmas and our fridge was working fine on route - we had it running on battery while driving and a few times when we stopped off, switched it to gas. When we arrived, it stayed stuck on battery - none of the buttons worked, couldn't turn it off, switch to gas or electric and eventually had to disconnect it as it was draining the batteries. Has anyone had a similar problem? The fact that it seemingly works on battery leads me to think it may be the PCB board but a replacement will cost 200€ and don't want to spend this blind. Its a 2017 model I believe.
 

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Disconnect the fridge from 240 and 12v ,leave it overnight, then try again in the morning.hopefully may reset it.
 
Looks similar to mine, if so the panel at the top comes off you can then see the pcb, try un-plugging it wait a few mins and plug it in again. I had intermitant problems with mine this year, if I turned the engine or pulled the 240v volt off before switching the fridge off with the button it wouldn't automattically change over as it used to. Now when changing from 12v or engine I make sure I turn it off first. Sometimes I forget and it's ok sometimes not so I think it's probablly the PCB playing up, but like you I don't want to shell out £200 to find that aint the prob. Best of luck.
 
When on 12 volt normally the fridge requires a feed from the D+ to engage the 12 volt so it should only work with the engine running.there should be a small wire carrying the 12 control. Circuit and a heavier 12 volt for the element. Possibly if the 12 volt is permanently live it may stop the gas or 240 from operating. If you connect it all back up then break the small wire and see if it is still live with the engine off?

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When on 12 volt normally the fridge requires a feed from the D+ to engage the 12 volt so it should only work with the engine running.
Depends how it is wired, every van we have had the fridge runs off the starter battery with the engine running, without the engine running if switched to 12v it runs off the leisure battery.
 
We have a 2019 Burstner with a Dometic Fridge whilst this has auto switching if we manually select 12 volts with the engine running all is well but if we turn the engine off shortly afterwards the alarm will sound as without a signal from D+ Which should only be there when engine running. No 12 volt power is available. As stated on ours are 2 separate 12 volt feeds one for the controls and lights and one for the element power. They may both be onto the pcb but the D+ should control the switching.
 
We have a 2019 Burstner with a Dometic Fridge whilst this has auto switching if we manually select 12 volts with the engine running all is well but if we turn the engine off shortly afterwards the alarm will sound as without a signal from D+ Which should only be there when engine running. No 12 volt power is available. As stated on ours are 2 separate 12 volt feeds one for the controls and lights and one for the element power. They may both be onto the pcb but the D+ should control the switching.
Like I said it depends how it's wired. The Elektroblock has a changeover relay controlled by the D+, the N.O. contact connects to the Starter battery and the N.C. contact connects to the leisure battery, Hymer make use of this facility but it looks like your Burstner does not.
 
Like I said it depends how it's wired. The Elektroblock has a changeover relay controlled by the D+, the N.O. contact connects to the Starter battery and the N.C. contact connects to the leisure battery, Hymer make use of this facility but it looks like your Burstner does not.
Our Malibu works exactly the same
 
Ours was exactly the same on gas.I unplug ged the connector block behind the fridge , which seemed to sort it.

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Howard B we currently have this problem. Could you tell me how I locate the connector block, please?🙂
 
I removed the bottom grill on the outsideof the van. There was a big connector block behind.
 
I removed the bottom grill on the outsideof the van. There was a big connector block behind.
Is yours the RM or RMD? I couldn't see the connector block. I have the RM model (smaller)
 
Getting the van sorted out for the season mine started playing up again, no lights on panel nothing happening until I plugged into EHU, it sprang into life and worked on gas and 12v also but as it kept playing up last year I bit the bullet and bought a new frontpanel/PCB, all works as it should now.

Robert2891 Mine is a RMS 8051 so different to yours.

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