Does this sound reasonable about getting solar fitted...

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Autotrail Apache
Want to get solar fitted so ask about getting some fitted.... said that wanted it to charge both leisure and vehicle, use it mainly for TV when off grid they came back with this...

Thank you for your enquiry.
There are several options depending on preference and budget. The larger power would generally come from a rigid panel which could be up to 400 watts. However the fitting would include mounting brackets that are glued and screwed to the roof. Some people prefer semi flexible panels which are glued on the roof but this costs more money. Our experience is that the performance is not as good during summer when the panels get hot. To give you an idea of supply and fit including vat for budget purposes I would allow £1200 for semi flexible which includes 3 x100 watt panels or £800 for 1 x 380 – 400 watt rigid panel.

Does this seem reasonable or should I shop around some more.

Many thanks in advance
 
Want to get solar fitted so ask about getting some fitted.... said that wanted it to charge both leisure and vehicle, use it mainly for TV when off grid they came back with this...

Thank you for your enquiry.
There are several options depending on preference and budget. The larger power would generally come from a rigid panel which could be up to 400 watts. However the fitting would include mounting brackets that are glued and screwed to the roof. Some people prefer semi flexible panels which are glued on the roof but this costs more money. Our experience is that the performance is not as good during summer when the panels get hot. To give you an idea of supply and fit including vat for budget purposes I would allow £1200 for semi flexible which includes 3 x100 watt panels or £800 for 1 x 380 – 400 watt rigid panel.

Does this seem reasonable or should I shop around some more.

Many thanks in advance
I think you need a bit of info about the controller that they're going to use etc. I'd get the details then get a like for like quote from someone else.
 
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As already said, more info needed.

For comparison, you can get Solar controllers for £20, but they are junk! A decent Victron for that size panel is £150.

Add in that a decent panel at £200ish, then sealant, fixing brackets, glands and wiring, you probably get close to £450 using decent parts that will perform and last.

If they are using decent quality kit, £800 sounds a little bit steep but not extortionate for a decent job.

If they are using junk, then run away. 👍
 
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A 380watt panel is usually quite a big panel ,have you advised the intended supplier of the available roof space that you have?
You would slso need to know what controller they would supply as already mentioned as if your considering lithium batteries for example in the future you want the controller to be compatible.
If you check out the kits available on e Bay it will give you some idea of prices for the bits and pieces.
Flexible panels are not the ones to use BTW.
 
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Many thanks....
Just for information.
This is a perfectly good basic kit much like my one and serves all my needs for my TV while 100% off grid
I would recommend a dual battery controller.
You only need to find someone to fit it now.

 
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Modern adhesive sealants, used for holding down the brackets for the panels do not need to be screwed through the roof of the van.

That is overkill and leaves the potential for leakage.
That's a handy piece of info I didn't know. Thank you. Do you mean stuff like 'no more nails' and if so is it ever removable, should the desire or need arise in future??
 
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That's a handy piece of info I didn't know. Thank you. Do you mean stuff like 'no more nails' and if so is it ever removable, should the desire or need arise in future??
Silka 521, or 544
and try and avoid these brackets below, I have had personal bad experience (aswell as others) and yes they were fitted roughed up and cleaned etc.
Amazon product ASIN B01M7TIQ1E
Use angle iron if possible or some other method depening on your van like roof rack/frame etc
 
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That's a handy piece of info I didn't know. Thank you. Do you mean stuff like 'no more nails' and if so is it ever removable, should the desire or need arise in future??
Tombola is giving you the details of the right kind of stuff.
For the likes of sticking down the brackets for a solar panel, you have a 2mm spacing between the brackets and the roof (ie. You don't squeeze all the sealant out) To remove anything, either a cheeswire or, what I used was a very thin, bladed, pointed, serrated bread knife, push, twist and it sliced off quite easily.
Don't be fooled by that. No amount of wind has a bread knife in its armoury.

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I think you need to take a step back and think of how you use your motorhome. If you're stationary for any long period of time then solar might be the answer, but if you move around a lot then spending more money on a bigger lithium AND a 50Amp B2B might be your best option. You could always add a folding solar panel to the 'set up', to use whilst parked up 'off grid'.

I think £800 plus on solar is a lot to spend when you might be able to double your lithium and add a B2B for a similar price.

If you don't intend getting an inverter and using 240v appliances now, you might want to in the future ...that's why increasing your lithium might be a better use for your money?
 
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Just a thought I had 3 stick on panels fitted same as they fit to boats they expired from overheating ,then I had 3 more fitted the dealer couldn’t get the original ones under warranty they had 25year warranty .so he payed for them off another company ,they packed up again stick on.Sowe decided to go with old style on brackets and no problem no years later there still good eeach one is 100 watts.The dealer was so good Road Pro thankyou if you read this.
 
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There is no need to screw anything into the roof. We use 50 x 50 aluminum angle pop riveted to the panel and then stuck down with PU adhesive. We did it ourselves that way in our previous motorhome and had no problems. When we bought our present motorhome we did a deal with the dealer and they stuck 2 panels on the roof down and they have lasted over 7 years and 48,000 miles. Just stuck another couple ot 100W panels down using Sikaflex 291i
 
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Just a thought I had 3 stick on panels fitted same as they fit to boats they expired from overheating ,then I had 3 more fitted the dealer couldn’t get the original ones under warranty they had 25year warranty .so he payed for them off another company ,they packed up again stick on.Sowe decided to go with old style on brackets and no problem no years later there still good eeach one is 100 watts.The dealer was so good Road Pro thankyou if you read this.

From many years boating, you need airflow under the panel to help cool it. They lose efficiency very quickly when they get hot and very quickly die when they overheat.
 
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Silka 521, or 544
and try and avoid these brackets below, I have had personal bad experience (aswell as others) and yes they were fitted roughed up and cleaned etc.
Amazon product ASIN B01M7TIQ1E
Use angle iron if possible or some other method depening on your van like roof rack/frame etc
All good, except the angle iron, angle ally I expect you meant.
Mike

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I don't get the hangup about putting a few screws through the roof. If they are set in sikkaflex or equivalent there will be no problem. Lets face it the biggest holes in the roof; such as skylights and cable routing glands will be more susceptible to leakage by reason of size compared to a few little self tappers screwed through sikkaflex. My boat sat in the water with many holes in the hull below the waterline for water intakes and seatoilet and never once did the sealant fail.
 
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I don't get the hangup about putting a few screws through the roof. If they are set in sikkaflex or equivalent there will be no problem. Lets face it the biggest holes in the roof; such as skylights and cable routing glands will be more susceptible to leakage by reason of size compared to a few little self tappers screwed through sikkaflex. My boat sat in the water with many holes in the hull below the waterline for water intakes and seatoilet and never once did the sealant fail.
Not a hangup - simply overkill and unnecessary.
 
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Did this myself last week using panels total 400w from Craig solar and a victron 100/30 controller …
Around £600 all in….😎

IMG_4658.jpeg
 
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Not a hangup - simply overkill and unnecessary.
Or a failsafe. My through hull fixings were bolted in sikkaflex to maximise their security. I don't think you will find any boat builder in the world just relying on the adhesive sealant alone for above and below waterline fixings. I believe even St. Vanbitz screw and seal!
 
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Or a failsafe. My through hull fixings were bolted in sikkaflex to maximise their security. I don't think you will find any boat builder in the world just relying on the adhesive sealant alone for above and below waterline fixings. I believe even St. Vanbitz screw and seal!
I have no experience of boats but very extensive experience of attaching things to leisure vehicles. The make of PU adhesive is second to great care in preparation of a suitable surface area. I've had nothing I've attached come unstuck but have experienced converter-applied adhesive let go. Usually from an ill-prepared plastic part. If its of interest I usually use U-Pol Tiger Seal.

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£1200 mainly to watch TV......wow ....
In the UK or Southern Spain, Winter or Summer, 8hrs a day or 1 ......???
 
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Apparently lots of car bits are 'glued' on. It's also how windscreens are secured, I've never seen one come out yet with vibrations or even collisions, even with force being applied from the inside .....
 
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Apparently lots of car bits are 'glued' on. It's also how windscreens are secured, I've never seen one come out yet with vibrations or even collisions, even with force being applied from the inside .....
I agree todays adhesives properly prepared and applied are quite superb, particularly over large surface areas such as windscreen perimeters. Superglue for example has great effect on glueing skin wounds! However some forces acting on attached fixtures seem intent on separating them from their mating surface, I just don't have any issues with doubling up with a secondary fixing through the mastic sealant as a failsafe.

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I agree todays adhesives properly prepared and applied are quite superb, particularly over large surface areas such as windscreen perimeters. Superglue for example has great effect on glueing skin wounds! However some forces acting on attached fixtures seem intent on separating them from their mating surface, I just don't have any issues with doubling up with a secondary fixing through the mastic sealant as a failsafe.
And I don't have any issues with doubling up IF only for peace of mind, but I do struggle to see how a few self tappers through a thin skin of roof would make any difference. Bolted through and forming a clamp however would make a definite failsafe.
 
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I will just add my opinion of fixing those plastic corner mounts. The really do not adhere well to most of the common adhesives in use. I have known several, where the panels were removed and one or two mounting brackets were found to be just sitting there. In other words the panel was holding them in position. Far better to use angled alloy sections.

Geoff
 
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Very impressive, well done!!
Even more impressive when you see this:

 
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Even more impressive when you see this:


Your going to make me blush…😎
 
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