Does this bike look right on the rack?

[ianto999]

Just used Thule elite rack on back of Ducato for first time, so looking for tips.
Bike is 26’ orange hardtail.
Couldn’t work out a good way to get the clamp on top tube, so used seat tube instead, but it still seems a bit further from the rack than I am used to with VW rack.
Any comments/suggestions welcome.

 

[funflair]

Give it a tug and can the arm securing it move ? nice bike titanium I think the P7 ? I might be tempted to put a rope around as well if I thought it might move, and a good lock as well

 

[ianto999]

Thanks - it’s all tight but just seems further out than expected. Will try a road bike next and see what that looks like.

Give it a tug and can the arm securing it move ? nice bike titanium I think the P7 ? I might be tempted to put a rope around as well if I thought it might move, and a good lock as well

 

[ianto999]

Thanks - it’s all tight but just seems further out than expected. Will try a road bike next and see what that looks like.

Sadly just titanium colour…steel frame…

 

[Nanniemate]

I put mine on the outside rail never tirn the handlebars.

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[dalspa]

Doe’s the black u shaped black bar (to which the clamp fits) twist round so that it slopes upwards instead of downwards. If so then you might be able to then fix the clamp to the crossbar, the higher the fixing then the more rigid the bike would be. As already said, using the outer rail would alleviate turning the handlebars.
Interesting your (steel) Orange P7 as I have one also. They date, I think from about 1990, considered a classic hard tail. Not ridden mine for well over 20 years! Need to get rid!

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

An additional security locking lanyard around bike frame and rack would deter casual opportunist "tea leaves"
Mike.

 

[Funnymunny]

As well as turning the handlebars I always remove the saddle it makes it less attractive to thieves

 

[ianto999]

They are classic bikes now! I don’t have my original forks now, so if you have any spare…..
Think mine is circa 1991, with the 8 speed cassette upgrade. It also has some forks, hydraulic rim brakes…

Ian

Doe’s the black u shaped black bar (to which the clamp fits) twist round so that it slopes upwards instead of downwards. If so then you might be able to then fix the clamp to the crossbar, the higher the fixing then the more rigid the bike would be. As already said, using the outer rail would alleviate turning the handlebars.
Interesting your (steel) Orange P7 as I have one also. They date, I think from about 1990, considered a classic hard tail. Not ridden mine for well over 20 years! Need to get rid!

 

[ianto999]

I guess I’m wondering which position most people use for rack. Seem to be two top bar positions and 3 wheel holder ones.

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[Brains]

1: When carrying one bike I always use the outer rail.
It saves having to turn the handle bars.

2: The inner bike should always have the front wheel on the right.
The outer bike should always have the front wheel on the left.
This is so the bikes are 'chain to chain'.

This means all the filthy stuff is in the middle of the bikes and not all over your hands and clothing.
It also means if you use a bike cover it does not get covered in greece on the inside.
(Which you find the hard way, months later!)

3: I always slightly offset the bikes, so that the inner bike front wheel is on the end of the rail on the right,
and the outer bike front wheel is on the end of the rail on the left.
This means that the handle bars are behind the seat of the other bike.

4: I normally put the smaller bike in the inside and the bigger bike to the outside.
This is because the arm to attach to the top tube is bent 90 degrees and is designed to go over the top of a smaller bike.

5: I always lock the bikes together using two D Locks and two 2m cables.
Each cable passes through the rack and the other bike wheel and frame then locking to the D lock on the back wheel.

It means any thief is going to have to cut at least two cables as well as deal with the rack security (locked plastic straps) to remove the bikes which needs at least two different tools.
Once the thiefs have the bikes they then need to deal with the D Locks, requiring a 3rd tool.

6: Once you have spent an afternoon working out the best way to put your particular bikes on your rack, take a photo!
And then print off the photo and attach it to the inside of a locker door for reference for next summer!

 

[ianto999]

Thanks - love the tips, esp the chain to chain one…
Agree - used to have a photo when had 4 bikes on back of VW!
Ian

1: When carrying one bike I always use the outer rail.
It saves having to turn the handle bars.

2: The inner bike should always have the front wheel on the right.
The outer bike should always have the front wheel on the left.
This is so the bikes are 'chain to chain'.

This means all the filthy stuff is in the middle of the bikes and not all over your hands and clothing.
It also means if you use a bike cover it does not get covered in greece on the inside.
(Which you find the hard way, months later!)

3: I always slightly offset the bikes, so that the inner bike front wheel is on the end of the rail on the right,
and the outer bike front wheel is on the end of the rail on the left.
This means that the handle bars are behind the seat of the other bike.

4: I normally put the smaller bike in the inside and the bigger bike to the outside.
This is because the arm to attach to the top tube is bent 90 degrees and is designed to go over the top of a smaller bike.

5: I always lock the bikes together using two D Locks and two 2m cables.
Each cable passes through the rack and the other bike wheel and frame then locking to the D lock on the back wheel.

It means any thief is going to have to cut at least two cables as well as deal with the rack security (locked plastic straps) to remove the bikes which needs at least two different tools.
Once the thiefs have the bikes they then need to deal with the D Locks, requiring a 3rd tool.

6: Once you have spent an afternoon working out the best way to put your particular bikes on your rack, take a photo!
And then print off the photo and attach it to the inside of a locker door for reference for next summer!

 

[ianto999]

The only problem I can see it that the grabber for the outer bone is straight, not curved, so it’s going to take a bit of working out.

Thanks - love the tips, esp the chain to chain one…
Agree - used to have a photo when had 4 bikes on back of VW!
Ian

 

[bigtree]

Give it a tug and can the arm securing it move ? nice bike titanium I think the P7 ? I might be tempted to put a rope around as well if I thought it might move, and a good lock as well

It's the Vitamin T that is titanium.

 

[dalspa]

They are classic bikes now! I don’t have my original forks now, so if you have any spare…..
Think mine is circa 1991, with the 8 speed cassette upgrade. It also has some forks, hydraulic rim brakes…

Ian

I still have the original front forks (fitted suspension forks) but, unfortunately, I don’t have a spare. I have seen them for sale on eBay from time to time. I bought my P7 second hand from a cycle shop in early/mid 1990’s for £400. Seen them go for more than that in recent years on eBay.
David.

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