bridgedino
Free Member
Or you could just look at it as someone have a go at a diy install. Exactly what the op was asking. Every van is different as will be every installGood old Gadget John rears his ugly head again. There is no way I would trust anything that guy does.
I take it you have not seen his video on his lithium battery install which was discuss on a Funster thread a year or so ago, that proved that he can be clueless.
Anyway I have just watched his heater install video and I'll give you my views on some areas of his install.
Luckily his kit came with the correct fuel line and that fuel line has to be used all the way not just the last part as he suggested unless you use a fuel line of the same internal bore and is not a rubber or flexible type like silicon tubing as these will kill the pulse of the fuel dosing pump due to the fuel line expanding and contacting and taking the energy out of the pump pulse. He does not seem to understand that the fuel dosing pump delivers ,022ml of fuel per stroke and the pump rate ( 1 stoke @ 1 Hz = 1 stroke per second ) is controlling the amount of fuel delivered to burn so adjusting the heat delivered. He has also fitted the fuel filter the wrong way around for the flow of fuel.
The mounting plate supplied for the heater should be chucked away if your install through the floor of a MH as the are designed to be used on a thin metal skin of a van or lorry.
For a thicker insulated floor as in a MH you should use a metal turret as the photos below and the hole drilled through for it should allow for a 3mm air gap around the ring section that goes through the floor to stop heat transfer from the hot exhaust which is getting towards the wrong side of 500 C as it exits the heater, and does he not realise that aluminium foil is an excellent conductor of heat.
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Moving on to his fuel tank. I do not see it as a good idea of hanging 15Kg on a plastic door skin which are usually about 2mm thick. I wonder how long that stays attached after a few bumpy roads and speed humps, and as for his leave the cap loose, did he miss the vent hole and non return valve in the cap. I have had 5 or these Chinese diesel heaters come through my hands and all have have a vented cap. Here's a cap cap from a tank that I did not use for an install.
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To prime the fuel for the first firing of the heater, you put it into priming mode which stops automatically after a set period. If the fuel has not reached the heater then you prime again. You watch the fuel as it makes it's way along the fuel line and when it reaches the heater you stop the priming. If you over prime you can flood the heater which will then not start and you have a problem that need not happen.
The gauge and length of the power cable supplied with these Chinese heaters can cause problems with the voltage drop on startup and shut down when the glowplug pulls about 10 amps and was graphically illustrated when he showed the voltage dropping to 11 volt at the heater. If his hab battery was giving a health 12.5 - 12.8 volt, than a hab battery voltage any lower will cause a shutdown on startup as the glowplug does no reach a heat to ignite the fuel. This potential problem can be overcome by replacing the original power cable with 4mm2 on shorter runs or 6mm2 on longer runs.
I noted that he is utilising the existing Truma ducting. The Chinese heater ducting has an internal diameter of 75mm where as the Truma ducting has an external diameter of 65mm meaning the it's internal diameter is nearer 60mm. Using the Truma ducting greatly reduces the cross sectional area from that of the 75mm ducting which is likely to increase the back pressure of the airflow and slowing down the air speed down the ducting. The heater relies on a certain volume of cool air being drew across the combustion chamber fins to extract the heat you want from the heater at also to maintain the correct temperature of the combustion chamber casing and reducing the volume of airflow can and will cause overheating of the heater which is likely to cause the heater to shutdown if used at higher heater setting. Adding insulation as he has done only concentrates more heat in the area of the combustion chamber. I don't know the lengths of his Truma ducting in his van, but the recommended overall maximum length of the 75mm to be used is 3 metres, so this will be greatly reduced by going down to 60mm.