Diesel ⛽️.

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Just been out side to look ? around m/h & the thought occurred to me only done about 90 miles since last October
the fuel tank is full, god knows when we will be able to use m/h again.
apart from absorbing a little water does any one know if diesel will deteriorate over time?.
 
Diesel will be fine, its petrol that deteriorates quite quickly these days mate.

If your still worried about it, perhaps get your diesel filter changed when lockdown is over, there's a water trap in these filters, so you'll be safe as houses.
 
It started life as a plant and deteriorated into diesel (well oil if you want to be picky) so I expect the deterioration will continue over the next few million years so will probably need changing if the lockdown lasts that long (probably not much help but I did try at least):giggle:
 
I use a diesel bug treatment adative on the boats due to long lay ups ,a little in the camper or keep the tank full helps ..
But over a winter period laid up no probs

This is similar but the stuff I have is green. Just a capfull and good to go.



here you go

Amazon product ASIN B00KM0IPB4
 
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Had a Very large 30FT 2007 low mileage 7,000miles diesel Motorhome at a Dealership a while ago. It kept cutting out on journey's. The fuel tank had Organisms floating around in the tank. When the van was being driven the organisms floated or were sucked towards the fuel tank outlet blocking it making the van cut out.
A bit like a diesel jelly fish / funghi.
Tank was dropped, cleaned and the problem was sorted.

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Come to think about it I have heard of bug treatment,will bear in mind if lock down continues .
Thanks for the replies.
 
Had a Very large 30FT 2007 low mileage 7,000miles diesel Motorhome at a Dealership a while ago. It kept cutting out on journey's. The fuel tank had Organisms floating around in the tank. When the van was being driven the organisms floated or were sucked towards the fuel tank outlet blocking it making the van cut out.
A bit like a diesel jelly fish / funghi.
Tank was dropped, cleaned and the problem was sorted.


Black Mr Bobby's :LOL:
Before the race card gets chucked in :rolleyes:

Fungi like black lava lamp Bobby's
 
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Should be okay, we have machinery sat for months on end at work that seems to start and run ok.
Something to note, the fuel tank should always be filled when the vehicle is at operating temperature, this helps to prevent condensation build up in the tank.
 
jollyrodger I agree. Marine 16 is awesome. I also use Aquasolve or other similar water absorber in the tank.
(By way of explanation to non-boaties - sailing yachts might only fill up once a year or less, so the fuel needs to be kept in good condition and bug-free. They breed in the junction between water and fuel, so eliminate the water and you've less chance of getting diesel bug). Works in MHs too.

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If you do put an additive in you will need to go for a good drive to mix it in otherwise no point in using it.

Diesel does deteriorate slightly but nothing like petrol you can add a fuel stabiliser that prevents this.
 
Had a Very large 30FT 2007 low mileage 7,000miles diesel Motorhome at a Dealership a while ago. It kept cutting out on journey's. The fuel tank had Organisms floating around in the tank. When the van was being driven the organisms floated or were sucked towards the fuel tank outlet blocking it making the van cut out.
A bit like a diesel jelly fish / funghi.
Tank was dropped, cleaned and the problem was sorted.
definitely sounds like diesel bug, common in untreated boat tanks and engines. It grows where diesel and water meet. If tanks are left for a while and not full condensation can form in the tank then mix with the diesel and sink to the bottom, this is where the bug thrives. It can completely block filters and damage engines. Tanks are best left full if laid up for a while.
 
There was an issue back in the 70`s, with MFO. (VERY Heavy Marine Fuel, needed to be heated before injection) with contamination by "pond life" from some sources. That and high Vanadium content (Venezuelan fuel especially) causing burnt exhaust valves above about 600deg C, was giving us some headaches. We where at one time cleaning and changing Purifiers (centrifuges) every watch, and pulling Exhaust valves on a regular basis. It is unlikely that the current layup will affect diesel but keeping it full helps with condensation, as others have said.
 
from days with boat I always keep the tank full. This stops condensation forming at the top which introduces water in to the diesel. It is the water that causes the problem

MH tanks are not as bad as boats as they are often plastic rather than the thick steel ones on a boat
 
from days with boat I always keep the tank full. This stops condensation forming at the top which introduces water in to the diesel. It is the water that causes the problem

MH tanks are not as bad as boats as they are often plastic rather than the thick steel ones on a boat
I was just wondering if plastic tanks made a difference. I think I'm going to take an emergency can to fill with diesel everytime I fill the car. I think it will only take 3 years to fill the MH that way!

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The diesel bug is Cladisporium Resinae, or 'Gladys' as it was known in the aviation world. It is a big problem in large aircraft, we did regular testing to detect it, a sample of fuel on a petrie dish to see if anything grows. There are several products that kill it, we also regularly did a preventative treatment. Although harmless in itself the fungus can form into large mats and block fuel pickup and filters. It thrives on the interface of fuel and water, as it reproduces it excretes acid which can damage aluminium fuel tanks and components. Aircraft fuel tanks have water drains which are regularly purged, a sample of purged fuel is often kept until the next sampling as a record of the fuel quality, hopefully it will not be required by an accident investigator! Cleaning a contaminated tank is messy involving getting into the tank and physically removing the dead fungus after treatment, we used to swab contaminant with MEK with all its attendant health hazard. Glad I am out of it now.
 
Would the marine 16 cause any issues with the fuel system? I've got some in the garage that I used to use on the boat, but it was running the an old Perkins so not very critical?
 
Would the marine 16 cause any issues with the fuel system? I've got some in the garage that I used to use on the boat, but it was running the an old Perkins so not very critical?


Not to my knowledge,(but always willing to learn)
I've been using it in Vans as well for years ,if you can't get your Moho out and about mix it into an emergency can then tip that into the tank ,never had a problem .
But did find the problem with the present one that had stood around a lot ,prior to my ownership.
Only mild but clogged the filter at the end of pickup pipe in the tank,that on hill starts or when needing quick power up ,it would fade a bit till you eased back off the throttle .
Easy enough to cure on this one ,panel in the floor out with the fuel guage sender unit twist/pull off filter clean and reassemble.
 
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Not to my knowledge,(but always willing to learn)
I've been using it in Vans as well for years ,if you can't get your Moho out and about mix it into an emergency can then tip that into the tank ,never had a problem .
But did find the problem with the present one that had stood around a lot due to my ownership. Only mild but clogged the filter at the end of pickup pipe in the tank,that on hill starts or when needing quick power up ,it would fade a bit till you eased back off the throttle .
Easy enough to cure on this one ,panel in the floor out with the fuel guage sender unit twist/pull off filter clean and reassemble
Thanks for the info(y)
 
Should have read prior to my ownership ,now corrected .
Ferking spellchucker again.

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Hi.
A little off subject, but with ref to 68C's comments previously, with respect to water in aircraft fuel. Yes you had to check for water in the fuel tank, we always topped up after a flight. Also in micro lights you had to remove & empty the carburetor float chamber. You would often get a tiny drop of condensation in the float chamber in the decent stage of a flight. It was possible the next time you started the engine the water would be drawn up the carburetor jet when full power was selected for take off. The water was likely to freeze & block the jet with loss of power just when you needed it most. !!!!!
Anyway back to motor home fuel. I have checked my Fiat & Hymer manual to find no advise on fuel storage the use of additives etc.
I am going to look into the on line purchase of some inhibitor to mix in with the next fill.
What are the chances of being stopped by the police if a next use the van to go shopping at our local Tesco & fill up with fuel.
 
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Every machinery or motor I have that uses petrol, like: lawnmower, streamer, generator, chainsaws etc, I use fuel stabiliser, and run that in the carb. On diesel I never had the need, but you can get diesel stabiliser to preserve it for 12months. The main killer is air, that’s how water gets in. If your recipient is full and airtight, it can last good few months.
 
If you have Ducato with less then 90 litre capacity then you will have a large air gap above the fuel, the 60 litre up to 90 litre use the same tank, its just a longer pipe off the return breather sets the level.
 
If you have Ducato with less then 90 litre capacity then you will have a large air gap above the fuel, the 60 litre up to 90 litre use the same tank, its just a longer pipe off the return breather sets the level.
How would you know which tank you have handbook a little vague. My MH is based on the 2001 Peugeot Boxer 320 MWB 2.8Hdi.

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How would you know which tank you have handbook a little vague. My MH is based on the 2001 Peugeot Boxer 320 MWB 2.8Hdi.
Sorry I should have added this applies to the 250 290 series with the plastic tank.
 

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