Creative solution required to run cable in to out

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Mar 14, 2020
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Isle of Man
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Autotrail Cheyenne
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Since 2015, still learning
Good morning experts
my challenge is to run a short ehu cable from inside (power bank) to outside (ehu socket) while the van is in storage. Using standard 2.5mm sq cable.

At the minute I would rather not leave the window open while in storage.

I could drill another hole in the floor and retract the cable as far as possible when driving. Or, could have it exiting the ehu socket surround but not comfortable with this.
what other options do I have? My diy skills are ok with clear instructions 🤔😞

TIA,
Cush

Appreciate all suggestions.

edited as it read like I had done one of the options. Not done anything yet
 
Last edited:
Why?

If it’s to give you mains it won’t last very long so not worth it.
 
I assume it's just to keep the batteries charged, in that case why not connect to your consumer unit.
Yeah. leave them as close to 100% as possible and it covers parasitic drain. Is that an easy job? its a Sargent psu 2007
If it’s to give you mains it won’t last very long so not worth it.
I visit the van every couple of weeks, remove, recharge, return and reconnect the bank. Seems to work well. Just don’t like having the window open. Yeah it’s a hassle but only option at the minute.
 

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In ye olden days...
You sometimes saw EHU cables going in though a locker door and the door / casing had a cut out / filed section to accept the cable and allowing the door to lock. Maybe something as simple as that if you have the theford style lockers and a round file..
Hope that makes sense. I will try and find a pic if i can.

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What about through one of the gas drop vents? We have them in the gas locker and under the bench where the Truma lives.
 
Your using a 12 VDC battery to power a inverter (12 VDC - 220 VDC) to power a 220 VDC battery charger, to drop the voltage to 12 VDC !

Connect the power bank direct to your leisure battery if is simply to keep it topped up
 
What about through one of the gas drop vents? We have them in the gas locker and under the bench where the Truma lives.
Live cables through a gas locker is a real no no.

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I assume it's just to keep the batteries charged, in that case why not connect to your consumer unit.

This would be my choice, but you need an arrangement to make sure you don't make the pins of the EHU plug live.
 
One way to do this is to install a round blue mains connector, same type as the EHU inlet, inside the van. You also need a changeover switch between this connector and the EHU inlet.

The existing wire goes from the EHU inlet to the consumer unit. Disconnect it at the consumer unit, and run the wire to the switch. Then run a wire from the new connector to the switch. Finally run another wire from the switch to the consumer unit.

You can then switch between the two blue mains connectors. If you don't have a switch, the problem is that the EHU inlet and the new connector are 'plug' types, not sockets, so if one is connected, the other has live pins that can be touched. A switch avoids that problem. If one is in use, the other is isolated.

You could get a plastic electrics box, and install the new connector and the switch in it. If it's in a cupboard out of sight it won't look too bad.

This new socket might come in handy when you are camping off-grid, too. Once you have a power bank, you'll find all kinds of uses for it.
Amazon product ASIN B07L8SJXGV
 
Thank you all

Please never underestimate the respect I have for your knowledge skills and understanding that is far beyond mine, and my abilities. Thank you for bringing it to this forum for the cost of a membership. (Even the rugby banter)

my perfect solution would have been to get a lithium battery which would sit comfortably at a sub 100% SOC, new charger with the correct profiles, a b2b and maybe an inverter. Unfortunately, including a professional fit, the cost is beyond my means. I motorhome on a tight budget. I have been gifted / inherited the powerbank. It seems pretty good and almost doubles the Ah that I have (at least on paper and not accounting for any inefficiencies).
a change over switch or gap / hole in a locker seem my most likely approach at the moment.
thanks again everyone.

when I am up and running with it I will try to post some results of this “test”

thanks again,
Cush
 
I was thinking of buying a power station and doing the same although I could make and run a short EHU cable without going outside. Seems a better option than fitting a separate battery, dc to dc charger and inverter. Plus the power station can be used for other uses and stays with me when the van goes.
 
Can't you just use a separate battery charger from the powerbank directly onto the battery
That’s an interesting call. Thank you. Would still need to get some cables outside (batteries in an in accessible, sealed rear spare wheel locker) but adds another line of thought.

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I was thinking of buying a power station and doing the same although I could make and run a short EHU cable without going outside. Seems a better option than fitting a separate battery, dc to dc charger and inverter. Plus the power station can be used for other uses and stays with me when the van goes.
They are like marmite . For flexibility (using somewhere else) or if changing the van soon, or if you have been given one and are skint, they seem a reasonable alternative if less efficient alternative. what you describe is my holy grail. Only time will tell if I have been ridiculous. 🤣🤭
 
Have you thought of fitting a battery master (battery maintainer) that keeps your van battery charged from leisure battery or vice versa 🤔
 
That’s an interesting call. Thank you. Would still need to get some cables outside (batteries in an in accessible, sealed rear spare wheel locker) but adds another line of thought.
You could connect the extra charger to internal end of the battery cables near the distribution box
 
Would still need to get some cables outside (batteries in an in accessible, sealed rear spare wheel locker) but adds another line of thought.
You could install a 12V socket (cigarette-lighter type) in the habitation area running from the leisure battery, which would be very useful in itself. Then you could plug the charger 12V output into that socket to charge the leisure battery.
 
One way to do this is to install a round blue mains connector, same type as the EHU inlet, inside the van. You also need a changeover switch between this connector and the EHU inlet.

The existing wire goes from the EHU inlet to the consumer unit. Disconnect it at the consumer unit, and run the wire to the switch. Then run a wire from the new connector to the switch. Finally run another wire from the switch to the consumer unit.

You can then switch between the two blue mains connectors. If you don't have a switch, the problem is that the EHU inlet and the new connector are 'plug' types, not sockets, so if one is connected, the other has live pins that can be touched. A switch avoids that problem. If one is in use, the other is isolated.

You could get a plastic electrics box, and install the new connector and the switch in it. If it's in a cupboard out of sight it won't look too bad.

This new socket might come in handy when you are camping off-grid, too. Once you have a power bank, you'll find all kinds of uses for it.
Amazon product ASIN B07L8SJXGV
autorouter , Just revisiting this, sourcing bits and picking brains…

what could be an advantage of having the additional blue ehu socket inside the van wired to the change over switch rather than a direct cable with plug from the powerbank’s inverter?

Also can this type of switch be used to swap where I send my solar panel power to or is it inappropriate for that situation? If it is ok to use with 1 input (solar array) with 2 selectable outputs (powerbank’s solar controller or leisure batteries solar controller), is it wired in exactly the same way or is there a load side and an input side to the switch?

appreciate advice,
Cush

hope I’ve explained that clearly enough? 🧐 🤯😵‍💫

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I think the only advantage is when using a generator, when you might want a long cable from the generator to the MH. If the power bank will be located next to the switch, then you could indeed just wire direct to the switch. The wire would be properly isolated if the switch was in the EHU position.

The switches are metal contacts, with no electronics inside, so the current can flow either way. They could be used for solar panel switching as you describe. Check the DC amps rating, which might be lower than the AC amps rating. These switches are available in many configurations, not just 2-way changeover. I have one that has an off and three on positions, and can switch between three devices.

To go into detail, make sure the switch is a 'break-before-make' type, so that one device is definitely disconnected before the other device is connected. They also make the other type (make-before-break) which is used for other applications, so check the spec before you buy.
 

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