Considering N&B Arto 69G for motorhoming in UK and Europe

obmij77t

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Ripponden, UK
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Chausson Welcome 75
Hi All, newbie here. I have seen some N&B ‘views’ on here…but to put simply:

  • New to motorhoming
  • Just myself, wife and dog
  • See ourselves getting used to the lifestyle for year in uk (holidays, long weekends etc)
  • Then 6-12 months in Europe next year
  • Looking at A class as we like the rear bed size mainly
  • N&B Arto 69G 2002 fairly local has been viewed / we like it…
  • Are N&B a good purchase generally?
  • My wife will have to gain her C1 as only I have it on my licence but we think this is worth pursuing as the A-Class will be far better for a long tour next year

Any advice on N&B and things to look out for would be much appreciated.
 
The N+B bit is quality, double glazed cab windows can break down and stem up inside, expensive to fix unless are pretty handy.

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Parts are quite easily available as is good advice from various forums etc.

Here‘s a link to the original brochure OK it‘s in German but you can see most of the specs as they are numeric.

Still love the look of that generation of Arto, classic 🥰
 
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Yep, great vans.

Presumably you have a passport that will enable you to spend 6-12 months out of the UK; most of us are affected by the 90 in 180 day restriction.

Ian
We plan to go via Eastern Europe (I.e non schengen to break it up…but it’s only a partial plan so far anyway)….
 
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Parts are quite easily available as is good advice from various forums etc.

Here‘s a link to the original brochure OK it‘s in German but you can see most of the specs as they are numeric.

Still love the look of that generation of Arto, classic 🥰
That’s excellent…many thanks.
 
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I take it the age is irrelevant? It’s done very low mileage which seems amazing given it’s age….
 
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We’ve worked on a few N&B and they’re very good.
Not sure about general running costs and repairs, but very good quality all round.

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I think I am right saying that the post 2000 Arto has aluminium walls inside and out where pre 2000 they are ply inside, being aluminium a traditional damp meter won’t work so checks would need to be more visual, I think the garage floor is ply so check that for damp and rot.
 
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Good luck with your purchase and forthcoming trips.

In my humble opinion, I’d be looking out for something that was at least Euro 6 because of the increasing number of Low Emission Zones popping up every where, not just the UK.

Euro 7 has already been written, its just a matter of time.

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I take it the age is irrelevant? It’s done very low mileage which seems amazing given it’s age….
We are on our 3rd N&b, just entering our 18th year. The older ones are definitely better quality but the engines are a bit less powerful and only 5 speed. The 2.8jtd is the most powerful from that period and is remappable. Make sure its had a recent timing belt or budget for one. Check double glazed side windows for misting (£2k each) check shower tray for cracking, and garage floors are ply so can rot ( rest of body and floor cant rot) If they all checkout then its about the best quality you can get.

Have you had a drive in it?
 
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We are on our 3rd N&b, just entering our 18th year. The older ones are definitely better quality but the engines are a bit less powerful and only 5 speed. The 2.8jtd is the most powerful from that period and is remappable. Make sure its had a recent timing belt or budget for one. Check double glazed side windows for misting (£2k each) check shower tray for cracking, and garage floors are ply so can rot ( rest of body and floor cant rot) If they all checkout then its about the best quality you can get.

Have you had a drive in it?
Excellent advice. Yes I’ll be having a drive for sure….thanks for the advice. 🫡
 
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I wrote a longer reply this a.m. but lost it.

I think you have enough info but I will just add that we have a N&B ArtoGL (2003) (L is for L-shaped sofa) with 2.8jtd engine.

Like OP it was our first MH bought 14 years ago now coming up 21 years-old. Been Poland-Greece and back twice in last 3 years. No problems.

I endorse opinion that build quality of that era was v.g.

The 2.8jtd does need re-mapping to get better performance in the high ratio 5th gear.

Buy it and enjoy - we have.
 
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Thanks all for your info and guidance. Greatly appreciated. I can see this is a most helpful and useful forum…

Thanks again!

Well Done Thank You GIF by Major League Soccer

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We have a great Arto for sale at the moment!

Simon

Interesting. We have a Arto 69GL (2003) which could come your way if we move to UK.
I was surprised to see that between 2003 and 2005 N&B had deleted the rear window.

I may come on your website for a quote. I will also give you the spec of a replacement for you to look for. Then maybe we can have a chat.

Geoff Nicholson.
 
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I wrote a longer reply this a.m. but lost it.

I think you have enough info but I will just add that we have a N&B ArtoGL (2003) (L is for L-shaped sofa) with 2.8jtd engine.

Like OP it was our first MH bought 14 years ago now coming up 21 years-old. Been Poland-Greece and back twice in last 3 years. No problems.

I endorse opinion that build quality of that era was v.g.

The 2.8jtd does need re-mapping to get better performance in the high ratio 5th gear.

Buy it and enjoy - we have.
Hi Nicholsong…what are you looking at roughly for a remap?

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Hi Nicholsong…what are you looking at roughly for a remap?

I assume you are asking about price not the technical details.

Mine was ten years ago and the guy, Alex trading as Boosters had developed his own programmes. I think it was about £150, but that included him driving from Norfolk to Peterborough Services to the job threre.

He listened to my requirements as to what I wanted to achieve, knew the engine and gearbox and set his programme parameters accordingly. The MH has performed accordingly.

I think that re-mapping is preferable to just wiring in an off-the-shelf chip. Also do not believe people who tell you that their re-map will give better performance and better mpg. I may have got slightly better mpg, but only as a result of being able to stay in 5th gear for longer on motorways with hills.

Anyway if the cost is now £250 I think it would still be worth doing, if it has not been done already, as in respect of the capital cost of the MH you are getting a better engine.
 
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Hi Nicholsong…what are you looking at roughly for a remap?
Just to add a bit more on the performance- the ducato of that era was available with 2 choices of top gear ratios, the lower one being for heavier vehicles. Asfaik N+b specced the higher one which is better for motorways but can make it a bit of a struggle on long climbs because of the step between 4th and 5th, this gap is what @nicholis referring to. The higher ratio would be my choice but a good idea to test drive it on a road that you can get to 60 on, if its screaming its head off then you need to move on or budget to have it changed.
 
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