Compressor fridge playing up…?

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I have one of these generic alpicool cr90 fridge/freezers although it is fairly new it was working fine on several occasions, but now I’ve gone away into France I seem to have picked up Northernraider problems with fridges..

Today it was working fine, out walking around st-Malo and come back and it’s dead, check fuse an 30amp had blown in the cbe changed fuse and still not working. Investigation reveals no power going into fridge so I make my own lead up with a 30a fuse and it’s works… but it seems the freezer thermostat is not, I have the freezer set at -15 and the fridge at 5c the freezer is hovering around -8 to -10 if the fridge temp drops the compressor comes on and the freezer cools a few degrees but once the fridge reaches the set temp it goes off, my food in the freezer is getting soft…

My batteries are fully charged…

Anyone got any ideas…?

EE80158A-8144-4BC8-837A-F95EEBEDFFC2.jpeg
 
They often only have 1 thermostat and it senses fridge temperature, so if the ambient temperature is low the fridge doesn't run.

The freezer will only cool when the compressor is running of course, so the freezer temp will go too high.

The power supply looks like a separate issue
 
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The only think I immediately changed on our fridge and fridge freezer from new, was the cable. The manual stated min 6mm2 for over 3m run. I chopped the supplied cables short, and replaced with 6mm2. Voltage drop and surge start can cause problems to the electronics.
I hope you get it fully working again.
 
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They often only have 1 thermostat and it senses fridge temperature, so if the ambient temperature is low the fridge doesn't run.

The freezer will only cool when the compressor is running of course, so the freezer temp will go too high.

The power supply looks like a separate issue

It’s around 20c in the van, I don’t know what you mean by your second sentence..?

The only think I immediately changed on our fridge and fridge freezer from new, was the cable. The manual stated min 6mm2 for over 3m run. I chopped the supplied cables short, and replaced with 6mm2. Voltage drop and surge start can cause problems to the electronics.
I hope you get it fully working again.

I originally wired it up to the old 3 way fridge supply, it’s now wired directly to 12v with its own wire supplied with the fridge..
 
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I originally wired it up to the old 3 way fridge supply, it’s now wired directly to 12v with its own wire supplied with the fridge.
I cut off my original fridge supplied wire, and replaced it with 6mm. It came supplied with 2.5mm2, good for under 0.5m run.
What's the voltage like? Does it start instantaneously? Does it surge?
The fact that it blew the fuse maybe low volts increased amps? Is the supply wire warm when running for 2-3mins?
 
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I cut off my original fridge supplied wire, and replaced it with 6mm. It came supplied with 2.5mm2, good for under 0.5m run.
What's the voltage like? Does it start instantaneously? Does it surge?
The fact that it blew the fuse maybe low volts increased amps? Is the supply wire warm when running for 2-3mins?

Supplied wire is quite thick Raul, not sure on size but it’s thicker then EHU hook-up wire..🤔 fridge acts normally and wires do not get even warm… looks like I’ve got a good fridge that keeps temp at 4c very well and compressor doesn’t come on much but freezer temp is now 2c, I’m expecting the freezer contents to defrost more and it’ll all end up as 4c…🤷🏼‍♂️

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It’s around 20c in the van
It's not an ambient temperature problem then. When the fridge runs can you feel (and maybe hear) the refrigerant frosting the freezer evap?

Some more expensive fridge freezers have solenoid valves controlling the refrigerant... 🤔 It's years since i worked on domestics so can't remember the exact layout. But the good news is it only sounds like a controls fault
 
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Just smiffy does the fridge controls have a master reset, possible in the bluetooth app
I ask as the power surge that blew the fuse could have made it have a wobble.

Ive had this on ours but only once and it was when first delivered, think refridgerent hadnt settled but that wont be the case with yours.
 
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I didn’t get a good nights sleep and I didn’t hear the fridge come on at all so I thought this morning it’s completely broke but turning it on from night mode the temp for the fridge was 4c but the freezer 2c so it’s really good at keeping the temp in..🤔

I thought it could have been all the frozen stuff keeping it cold so I turned it down to 2c to see what happens and it came on instantly and took it down to 2c fairly quickly and went off. Interestingly the freezer went to -10 but has now settled back to 0c.
The food has defrosted but it’s all still very cold in the fridge, when I’m at a more suitable park up I’ll take it out and have a good look at the back and front control panel..

It’s still working fine as a fridge and I can hear the compressor turning on and off so the worst scenario is I only have a fridge so it’s not the end of civilisation….

TBC…….🤔
 
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Gary, just a thought but is the door sealing ok

Yes as the fridge is working great, I’ve got the fridge set at 4 and it stays there all day, the freezer temp is all over the place and the reading goes lower when the compressor kicks in for a short while for the fridge. The compressor doesn’t come on much…🤔 but it is nice and cold in the fridge part. I’ve resigned myself to just having the fridge working well but once I’m in a place for a few days I might get it out and have a good look at it….

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I assume it only has only a single compressor.
If so as the fridge is keeping temperature it must be a mechanical problem with the cooling transfer panel/fins.
 
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I assume it only has only a single compressor.
If so as the fridge is keeping temperature it must be a mechanical problem with the cooling transfer panel/fins.

Not sure Lenny, no fins, I must have has some electrical occurrence as my fridge 30a fuse went and my 3a fuse for the cooker piezo and my gasit gas gauge… change them and all good except for the freezer bit..

Although at this minute…🤔

Fridge -1 freezer -12…🤷🏼‍♂️

image.jpg
 
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Not sure Lenny, no fins, I must have has some electrical occurrence as my fridge 30a fuse went and my 3a fuse for the cooker piezo and my gasit gas gauge… change them and all good except for the freezer bit..

Although at this minute…🤔

Fridge -1 freezer -12…🤷🏼‍♂️

View attachment 974584
Probably a panel with a pipe embedded the coolant runs through like a domestic fridge.
 
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I was having a problem with my fridge running too, I spoke to the technician we use for our commercial equipment and he advised to take the fridge out turn it upside down for 24 hours and then re right it, let it settle and then try it, he said the refrigerant settles if it has not been used for some time.
I will be trying mine today.
 
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I was having a problem with my fridge running too, I spoke to the technician we use for our commercial equipment and he advised to take the fridge out turn it upside down for 24 hours and then re right it, let it settle and then try it, he said the refrigerant settles if it has not been used for some time.
I will be trying mine today.
That's for a 3 way fridge, don't do that with a compressor fridge.

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Gary, i am shocked that you appear to have smuggled UK food into the EU inside a black cupboard, disguised as a fridge ....

I will be writing to the relevant authorities to ensure you don't attempt to enter the UK with unauthorised foodstuffs on your return.

Consider yourself chastised......😁😁😁
 
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Odd job,
can you elaborate ?
The oil sits in the bottom of the compressor rather like engine oil. If you turn it upside down it can leave the compressor sump and go down the pipework. Probably won't, or if it does it will drain back after a while... but turning up upside down doesn't achieve anything anyway.
 
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Odd job,
can you elaborate ?
A 3 way fridge has a "boiler" that is heated by the flame or electric element. This boiler can get dry sometimes, turning the fridge upside down allows refrigerant to drain back into it.
A compressor fridge has a compressor that is at the bottom of the circuit, the compressor has oil in it. The oil must not get mixed with the refrigerant, if oil gets into the circuit it can freeze and cause a blockage. This is why fridge instructions tell you stand the fridge fully leveled for hours before turning it on.
 
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The oil must not get mixed with the refrigerant, if oil gets into the circuit it can freeze and cause a blockage.
Sorry to be pedantic but this is wrong, the oil does mix with the refrigerant and is carried round the system. It doesn't freeze. It often pours out when you cut pipework on big systems and you have to be ready for it with a rag or bucket when you're ripping out pipework.

Freezers have "oil separators" that collect the oil in the compressor discharge and when the compressor shuts off, a solenoid opens and the discharge pressure shoves all the collected oil back into the compressor.
Also on pipework that rises up buildings we fit "oil traps" on every 6 meters, it helps the oil get fully round and back to the compressor instead of sliding back down the pipes everytime the compressor shuts down.
Anyway none of this is relevant here 😆

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Sorry to be pedantic but this is wrong, the oil does mix with the refrigerant and is carried round the system. It doesn't freeze. It often pours out when you cut pipework on big systems and you have to be ready for it with a rag or bucket when you're ripping out pipework.

Freezers have "oil separators" that collect the oil in the compressor discharge and when the compressor shuts off, a solenoid opens and the discharge pressure shoves all the collected oil back into the compressor.
Also on pipework that rises up buildings we fit "oil traps" on every 6 meters, it helps the oil get fully round and back to the compressor instead of sliding back down the pipes everytime the compressor shuts down.
Anyway none of this is relevant here 😆
I only briefly worked on domestic refrigeration but that is what I was taught, why do the instructions say to stand the fridge for several hours before switching on, if it's not to let the oil settle?
 
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The oil sits in the bottom of the compressor rather like engine oil. If you turn it upside down it can leave the compressor sump and go down the pipework. Probably won't, or if it does it will drain back after a while... but turning up upside down doesn't achieve anything anyway.
Thats what happened to mine when it was delivered. All ok the next day and from then on
 
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I only briefly worked on domestic refrigeration but that is what I was taught, why do the instructions say to stand the fridge for several hours before switching on, if it's not to let the oil settle?
Yes it's to let the oil run back into the compressor in the unlikely event it went up the suction pipe (mind you it would soon come back as soon as the compressor starts anyway). Hopefully only a small percentage travels round with the refrigerant but it won't freeze and is perfectly normal.
Oh I forgot to mention, on long pipe runs or when fitting an oil separator you put an extra pint of oil in anyway to compensate.
 
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Gary, is the freezer section removable (as mine is)? If so, is it pushed right back to seal freezer section from fridge? And is the freezer door definately closing fully?
It obviously can cool properly but is warming to near fridge temperature.
 
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Gary, is the freezer section removable (as mine is)? If so, is it pushed right back to seal freezer section from fridge? And is the freezer door definately closing fully?
It obviously can cool properly but is warming to near fridge temperature.
Had that problem with our Dometic compressor fridge. The removable shelf that formed the bottom of the freezer didn't push right in because the back of the fridge was warped .
I put a phone set to video inside the freezer and shone a torch around the edges which showed big gaps on both sides of the seal.
 
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