Chassis treatment

[Tarn2]

I’ve got a 2014 Boxer which is just beginning to show signs of surface corrosion in a couple of places on the chassis. What’s the best way to treat this before it gets any worse please?

 

[jockaneezer]

I follow this lad on YouTube and he's just had his VW Amorok treated at Rust Doctor Uk, they look to have done a good and thorough job ? Check it out from 57:36 !

ps. He might be an interesting one for you to follow generally chaser ?

 

[chaser]

I follow this lad on YouTube and he's just had his VW Amorok treated at Rust Doctor Uk, they look to have done a good and thorough job ? Check it out from 57:36 !

ps. He might be an interesting one for you to follow generally chaser ?

Yeah I've seen him mate. Does some good stuff.

 

[manners]

I had a lwb Transit sprayed with "professional" grade Waxoyl, looked amazing when done with a free 12 month check. A few places started to show rust again and when scraped back was rusty under the seal even though it was supposed to have inhibitors in it. At the check up I was told the rust was to advanced to be stopped but would be slowed down.
I use ACF 50 now (different van) which has to be applied every year but no new rust in 8 years and kept the odd spot it had from spreading especially the sump, Fiat sumps are renowned for rusting mines like new.

 

[Gromett]

I avoid anything black or rubberised. I have lost a van to rust forming behind stuff and not being visible.

I did a lot of experiments a number of years ago and now use Fluid Film or Lanoguard. This is a lanolin based spray, that never dries, creeps and self heals. It is clear so You can see if any rust is forming and deal with it straight away.
In high impact areas like the wheel arch you may need to apply each year, but it is dead easy. It doesn't need the rust to be treated before application, just knock the loose stuff off.

Plenty of reviews on youtube if you want to see more. I learned about if from South Main Auto channel on Youtube a number of years ago and he has done some long term tests and he is in the rust belt near New York.

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[Carpmart]

Best would be strip the vehicle and hot galvanise the chassis!

More seriously, but expensive, would be to have it dry ice blasted and then something like lanoguard over the top.

Or, just Lanoguard it without the dry ice process first!

 

[Billybob56]

I have had good results using Dinitrol 3125 HS. It’s available in Shultz cartridge and aerosol cans.

 

[Just smiffy]

I follow this lad on YouTube and he's just had his VW Amorok treated at Rust Doctor Uk, they look to have done a good and thorough job ? Check it out from 57:36 !

ps. He might be an interesting one for you to follow generally chaser ?

Love stuff like this but why couldn’t he put some sleeves over the shaft ends and welded them on…

 

[Guigsy]

My 2007, which I had until 3 years ago started to rust on the cills behind the front wheels. The paint started to bubble up. I had a body shop strip the area out, repair and fill it full of preventative. Lots of the non-structural engine bay brackets were pretty scaled, as was the after market tow bar arms. The rest of the chassis was solid though.

 

[jockaneezer]

Love stuff like this but why couldn’t he put some sleeves over the shaft ends and welded them on…

Yup, don't think I would have repaired it like he did (with the benefit of hindsight), but as my old Dad used to say "Anyone can fix a kicking horse, except the bloke that owns it !"