Big Electrics Upgrade

[herald_400rl]

Evening all!
Over the weekend our old 74ah lead-acid battery gave up. Our charger is original and puts out 13.6v. Split charge relay is nothing more than a 12v 75a relay and gave up long ago. I'm hoping to throw some cash at the situation and replace the lot.

1. 230v charger 50a https://vanjunkies.co.uk/products/12v-50a-fogstar-240v-lifepo4-charger-copy
2. Renogy 3000w inverter (is there an option here that can be used properly inline rather than what I plan to do which is a naughty socket to the 3 sockets we have, 2 in 1 and 1 in the other) https://uk.renogy.com/3000w-12v-to-...ith-english-standard-socket-with-ups-function
3. DC-DC charger 40a - options here? I like the eco-worthy as it can double as a solar charger which we don't currently have ("just add panels")
   1. https://uk.eco-worthy.com/products/...d-mppt-battery-charger?variant=44855610441968
   2. OR https://uk.renogy.com/12v-40a-dc-to-dc-battery-charger/
4. Batteries
   1. https://www.fogstar.co.uk/collections/drift-eco/products/drift-eco-305a-12v-leisure-battery
   2. OR https://uk.eco-worthy.com/products/12v-280ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery
5. Solar panel (if the eco-worthy dc-dc is deemed poopoo, will need MPPT)
   1. https://uk.renogy.com/200-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel
   2. OR 2 x https://uk.eco-worthy.com/collections/120w-170w/products/100w-12v-monocrystalline-solar-panel

Can anyone advise if there is anything hilariously wrong here? Currently the hab battery is in the engine bay on the other side of the van battery so it would need re-locating indoors for space, hence why its a 5m cable run (more likely 4m in the end). Water heater, van heater will not be going near the inverter and have their own trips on the 240v panel.

This will be a significant investment for us but I'd rather do it as right as I can afford this time and not have to worry about it down the line. Typically we are away for 2 nights every weekend, though this year we've done 9 nights around Norfolk and 8 round IoM. We normally stay on EHU sites and want to come off this reliance. The idea behind the fridge on 240v is to give us some flexibility as the fridge can sometimes be a pain to ignite if you're just pulled up for an hour.

Thanks all!

Edit: also a shunt, something like the Victron 500a!

 

[Carpmart]

Have you checked out your cable diameters as I would imagine that is where the majority of your work is.

 

[Raul]

Don’t get a dc-dc and solar combined. Keep them separate items, ideally both victron.
If you buy cheap, you will compromise or buy twice.

 

[yorkiebar]

Lots of the combined DC-DC + Solar controllers limit their output when both inputs are generating. For example, the Eco-Worthy DC-DC you linked to states: "If DC charging is introduced during the solar charging process , the solar charging will be automatically turned off and entered into DC charging".

Best to get separate units (as Raul mentions).

 

[MisterB]

What's a naughty socket ?

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[Guigsy]

Remember to factor in the cost of all the upgraded wiring. Copper that's happy to transmit that many amps over several metres is expensive.

On that note, do you need a mains charger that chonky? If you arrive somewhere with a hookup, even if it's just for the night, you'll probably be plugged in for 12-15 hours. I've got a 20a charger for my 280Ah battery... and it's pretty much permanently set on 10a because that's all I need. Which also prevents the fan from coming on.

 

[Dutch 68]

Plan a visit to RogerIvy and let the professionals deal with it, ( whilst you eat some cake, some more cake and a few coffees

 

[Just smiffy]

What's a naughty socket ?

It sits in the corner of the motorhome….

 

[herald_400rl]

What's a naughty socket ?

Plug into inverter, cable wired into back of socket...

 

[herald_400rl]

Remember to factor in the cost of all the upgraded wiring. Copper that's happy to transmit that many amps over several metres is expensive.

On that note, do you need a mains charger that chonky? If you arrive somewhere with a hookup, even if it's just for the night, you'll probably be plugged in for 12-15 hours. I've got a 20a charger for my 280Ah battery... and it's pretty much permanently set on 10a because that's all I need. Which also prevents the fan from coming on.

Hadn't considered that, the 20a is almost half the price, too.

I put the wire sizes on my diagram, I used a calculator on 12vplanet for the sizes and made sure the voltage drop was less than 2%.

From the other replies it looks like I'd be best getting dc-dc and mppt separate, does the dc-dc need to be that "chonky" or... the vans alternator is only 95a.

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[MisterB]

Plug into inverter, cable wired into back of socket...

That's how I've got mine, feeding several outlets ... Is there another way to install the inverter that's 'correct/better', so it feeds the sockets ?

 

[St3v3]

No, no, no. This is what you need

 

[MichaelT]

It sits in the corner of the motorhome….

Ours sits on the step

 

[MichaelT]

That's how I've got mine, feeding several outlets ... Is there another way to install the inverter that's 'correct/better', so it feeds the sockets ?

I've put a 3 way switch in so I can power all sockets from inverter or EHU.

 

[Flairy]

That looks awesome seem an awfull lot of tech?

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[MisterB]

I've put a 3 way switch in so I can power all sockets from inverter or EHU.

But effectively, isn't that the same, with all sockets fed by a plugged in lead to the inverter? You just have a switch that selects the source? The Renogy inverter allows those sockets fed purely by the inverter to operate via EHU without needing a switch as it has a built in pass through.

 

[MichaelT]

But effectively, isn't that the same, with all sockets fed by a plugged in lead to the inverter? You just have a switch that selects the source? The Renogy inverter allows those sockets fed purely by the inverter to operate via EHU without needing a switch as it has a built in pass through.

But I had an inverter already so saved a few hundred.

 

[St3v3]

That looks awesome seem an awfull lot of tech?

Which victron items would you like?



Yes.

 

[herald_400rl]

But effectively, isn't that the same, with all sockets fed by a plugged in lead to the inverter? You just have a switch that selects the source? The Renogy inverter allows those sockets fed purely by the inverter to operate via EHU without needing a switch as it has a built in pass through.

I just figure it's the same as using extension leads and the highest draw item we have is a 1400w air fryer. I imagined there would be an inverter that instead of sockets had pins for t&e but maybe this isn't a thing and what I'm planning is just the norm?

If the only glaring thing is the dc-dc being standalone from mppt solar charge then I'm glad I'm on the right path.

 

[MisterB]

I would imagine there are inverters without sockets or you could even ignore the sockets and connect cable internally, but that's above my pay grade ... !!

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[Kannon Fodda]

From the other replies it looks like I'd be best getting dc-dc and mppt separate, does the dc-dc need to be that "chonky" or... the vans alternator is only 95a.

Victron Orion XS. OK 50A output may be too much for your alternator but bluetooth settings let you limit it. Unit is small and efficient so doesn't need fans to cool. Some good discounts on pricing now such as from Off grid power solutions who do funster discounts.