Bet this is a new one...

Annually. Same with the plane. In the latter case I cut the tin off with a circular cutter and open up the filter paper to look for metal filings :)
 
Gravel......Easily remedied
Hi.
Until you drop a nut or bolt :ROFLMAO: ............ But yes,good for oil spills,just a rake and away you go again
Tea Bag
 
Im a believer in oil and filter annually but I really don’t think it’s needed. I had a mate with an old 80‘s Nissan Bluebird back in the day who just would not change his oil, just top up, so much so it would hardly stick to the dipstick, anyhow I badgered him to change it, so we did new oil and filter.............

It seized up two weeks later😳😳
 
Im a believer in oil and filter annually but I really don’t think it’s needed. I had a mate with an old 80‘s Nissan Bluebird back in the day who just would not change his oil, just top up, so much so it would hardly stick to the dipstick, anyhow I badgered him to change it, so we did new oil and filter.............

It seized up two weeks later😳😳
We had a guy work for us for a while who was proud of the fact his old van cost him nothing on servicing and had not seen a spanner in years, let alone an oil change. He rang me early one morning for a lift, as his van had spectacularly died, pushing a rod through the block and dumping treacle all over his drive. He then rang round the scrap yards for the cheapest replacement engine he could find. He refused to learn
 
Every two years - modern synthetic oils - silly low mileage. Waste of money to do it yearly but if it makes people reassured then change it yearly. Just don't let a stealer do it for you at their silly rates.

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18000 miles last year , 2650 in just the last 5 weeks 😁 its better to change parts because they are worn out rather than just because they are old
 
Should i change oil now or march, better to winterize with fresh oil. Done a massive 1500miles since march
Euro6
 
Change mine when I think of it... !
 
Back in my boat owning days, this was the time of year when the sailing club compound was full of yachties winterising their boats which, for the generally diligent, included changing the engine oil - often on engines that had only had a few hours of low rev use in the previous few months. The yachting press (presumably with shares in the oil industry) was strong on this point and full of learned articles about what happens to your oil as it sits there contemplating the next year and slowly reconstituting itself into an engine wrecking version of its former self. Apparently, low use is as much a reason for changing the oil as is high mileage. Just saying :giggle:
 
Im a believer in oil and filter annually but I really don’t think it’s needed. I had a mate with an old 80‘s Nissan Bluebird back in the day who just would not change his oil, just top up, so much so it would hardly stick to the dipstick, anyhow I badgered him to change it, so we did new oil and filter.............

It seized up two weeks later😳😳
Old unmaintained engines, especially diesels develope an internal coating of carbon from ring blow by and general wear contamination. Modern oils contain a 'detergent' (the W in the spec) that lifts and keep this sludge in suspension to carry it to the filter where it held until the next service. Older engines did not have such good filters and relied on regular oil changes to remove the dirt and ran on cheaper straight oil. As the older engines did not have good filters they avoid the detergent oils to keep the sludge in the bottom of the sump until drained, your older lawn mower for instance.
There were problems with light aircraft in the fifties and early sixties as most aircraft ran on non detergent oil, then someone tops the oil up with a can of detergent oil, clank clank - look for a field to land in.
So if you have an old unknown history engine, change the oil and filter when hot, new filter and normal oil, run for a longish trip then replace filter and oil again.

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I'm pretty sure the "W" refers to "Winter" as part of the viscosity spec for multigrade oils and not whether it contains detergent or not ?
In the days before decent synthetic race oils, Castrol R was a popular lubricant, but you had to change it regularly as it contained no additives and could allow a build up of acids (by products of combustion that entered the oil via blow back) which tended to attack brass and bronze bearings in the older engines.
 
You are right, I had to google it.:(:( i was getting mixed up with aviation specs. AeroShell W80 is a detergent 80 grade oil, without the W it is straight 80. The 80 equals SAE40. I know you can buy straight SAE 40 oil, I use it in my older aircooled stationary engines as their tolerances are too wide for multigrades.

All my other comments still hold, be careful just topping up an old dirty engine or you may lift settled sludge. Flush properly before finally adding the correct oil.
 
I took the wife's Nissan Micra for a service and MOT recently. The garage explained that it had passed the MOT but they had not changed the oil as the sump was 'porous.' It's a 2003 and has done 145k miles so I suppose £25 for a new sump ain't so bad......

Off with the old.
Sump.jpg


On with the new.
sump new.jpg
 
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I cut the tin off with a circular cutter and open up the filter paper to look for metal filings

I always stick a very strong magnet to the filter can. Assuming it will attract any metal that flows through the filter and hold it in the filter
 
2003 HYMER B644 PLATINUM 6 BERTH WITH ONLY 10,800 MILES FROM NEW £39,995.00
rusty sump and oil filter.
Currently on Ebay
rusty hymer.jpg
 
I change our oil every year regardless of mileage. I would never dream of leaving it for 3 years. The filters are made of thin metal and if you use your motorhome during the winter (salt) it could easily rust through in 3 years. The oil filter on our 2019 Peugot Boxer is very exposed.
Interestingly when I changed the 'factory fitted' filter on my 2018 ducato at 2yrs old using a 'chain' type filter tool the 'Fiat factory fitted' filter distorted and split, leaking oil everywhere as I tried to quickly undo it. Ended up having to apply the tool right up close to the seam for maximum grip to loosen the filter. It appeared to be a very cheap filter and when compared to a Mann filter replacement the quality and thickness of the replacements metal canister was obvious.
Made me wonder if Fiat had used oil that met their own minimum spec as well ?
 
This article was written in 2009, think engines and oils and things like DPF regeneration 'oil degradation counters' have moved things on a bit since then
If you notice there is a nod to oil degradation software.
This paper is from 2000. The Delphi web site also has info on oil condition sensors, however most manufacturers like fiat take the cheap way out with software adaptations.

Broken Link Removed
Are there more relevant newer attributable papers/ knowledge?

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