battery dead, no central locking , gauges flicking

Headrush

Headrush

Joined
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Hi all. Just nipped into the van for something and the central locking didn't work. So I used the key to get in and heard a constant clicking noise like solenoids or relays flicking in and out. The fuel and temperature gauges flicker in time with the clicking.
I used the hab display to view the vehicle battery voltage and its jumping around between 5 and 10 volts.
If I put the ignition into accessory position, the clicking and flicking stops.
Recently had an issue where the internal cab light was turning on and off when parked up with no one near the van. Turned that off to save the battery.
Any ideas?

2007 ducato, autotrail.

Thanks
 
Thanks, getting a new battery would be the easiest result considering the wiring on these vehicles. The van is on hookup as well so the battery shouldn't be dead but it has played up on sites before, just not to this extent.
Now if only the fierce winds and torrential rain would stop, I could get out there and start checking things...
 
Hello. I had a similar problem a few months ago. Mine was a 20amp fuse by the cab battery that had blown. Despite being plugged into EHU the cab battery was flat.
 
Headrush said:
Thanks, getting a new battery would be the easiest result considering the wiring on these vehicles. The van is on hookup as well so the battery shouldn't be dead but it has played up on sites before, just not to this extent.
Now if only the fierce winds and torrential rain would stop, I could get out there and start checking things...
Click to expand...
It is unlikely the hook up charger would charge the cab battery... sorry ......

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Headrush said:
Thanks, getting a new battery would be the easiest result considering the wiring on these vehicles. The van is on hookup as well so the battery shouldn't be dead but it has played up on sites before, just not to this extent.
Now if only the fierce winds and torrential rain would stop, I could get out there and start checking things...
Click to expand...
Does your EHU usually recharge your engine battery too? Many don't. Battery Master device would sort that for future.
 
DDuffs said:
? My cab battery charges when in EHU
Click to expand...
Not many do, I've got a victron smart solar and use the second input to measure the cab battery and it would get dangerous low even on ehu - fitted a battery master and I can see it charging, made a massive difference to the starting of the vehicle
 
Regarding the hookup charging the vehicle battery, I think I just assumed that was the case.
I've just been out to disconnect the battery and the clicking had stopped before I did it.
The multimeter shows 5.6v with the battery connected and 8.5v with the earth removed.
Something is pulling power but nothing is switched on. The fridge is turned right off and no lights or fans running.
Oddly, the sight glass in the battery still shows green.

I think that before anything else, I need to get the battery tested at least so I know where I'm starting from.
Thanks for your replies, it definitely helps.

Ironically, I only went in the van to get the levelling ramps out so I could sort out a problem under the car. If things come in threes, I've got one more to come...

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Jaws said:
It is unlikely the hook up charger would charge the cab battery... sorry ......
Click to expand...
The Electroblock in my Hymer charges the cab battery. It depends on how long the battery has been flat if its damaged. A few days probably won't hurt but weeks will. and freezing a flat battery is a sure kill. Stick a charger on it as a start.

More important is Why? A clamp on DC ammeter is a handy tool, you can clamp it around one battery lead and it will shoe current draw. I have a plethora of wired on my battery +ve terminal (solar, Electroblock fridge relay etc) and its easy top test all of these.

I use a UNI-T UT210D Digital Clamp Meter AC/DC Current Voltage Resistance Capacitance Multimeter. Its small and much more versatile than a simple multimeter. And, I fear to say, more useful than my trusted AVO meters in the MH.
 
Jaws said:
Rare indeed.. What make and model is your van ?
Click to expand...
Is it that rare? Apologies if so, I didn’t realise. My last 3 vans have all charged the cab battery, Hymer, Frankia and now our Adria.
 
Headrush said:
Regarding the hookup charging the vehicle battery, I think I just assumed that was the case.
I've just been out to disconnect the battery and the clicking had stopped before I did it.
The multimeter shows 5.6v with the battery connected and 8.5v with the earth removed.
Something is pulling power but nothing is switched on. The fridge is turned right off and no lights or fans running.
Oddly, the sight glass in the battery still shows green.

I think that before anything else, I need to get the battery tested at least so I know where I'm starting from.
Thanks for your replies, it definitely helps.

Ironically, I only went in the van to get the levelling ramps out so I could sort out a problem under the car. If things come in threes, I've got one more to come...
Click to expand...
The battery may well be salvageable. I know folk say their dead and knackered if fully discharged etc but I've had several over the years that lay completely flat for months yet when charged up on a proper battery charger have gone on to work fine for the duration I've owned the vehicle so don't just bin it recharge it . But sort out the drain problem on the van
 
Jaws said:
Rare indeed.. What make and model is your van ?
Click to expand...
Mine does too - don’t ask me how though 😜

2006 Autosleeper Nuevo.

5BE24EED-AA98-4737-84AF-F8935E733DD3.jpeg

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Headrush said:
The multimeter shows 5.6v with the battery connected and 8.5v with the earth removed
Click to expand...
Doubtful anything is draining it apart from the ECU etc which is normal.
At those voltages it's the battery itself which is knackered.
New battery will solve the problem.
 
Headrush If your Autotrail has a Sargent EC225 or EC328 PSU fitted I think you may find that they will charge the starter battery but only if selected manually on the control panel , if this is the case , as has been said , It would be worth fitting a Vanbitz battery master or similar to keep both the starter and leisure batteries charged.
The later Sargent PSU units can be set to charge both the starter and leisure batteries as required automatically.
 
Jaws said:
Rare indeed.. What make and model is your van ?
Click to expand...

DDuffs said:
Is it that rare? Apologies if so, I didn’t realise. My last 3 vans have all charged the cab battery, Hymer, Frankia and now our Adria.
Click to expand...
Really???!!@@

I figured it's pretty usual for all the standard builders to include EHU cab battery trickle charging...

And that's why I disabled mine as it will cook off a cab battery without you knowing...

Luckily our's didn't go pop and spread it's contents....

Cheers
Red
 
RedFrame said:
I figured it's pretty usual for all the standard builders to include EHU cab battery trickle charging...
Click to expand...
Maybe on eurovans but British still think caravan type build is the way to go.
One example....Brit vans STILL turn off the hab electrics when driving.....I don't think eurovans ever did
 
Two things.

Firstly, Peugeot Boxer (& Fiat Ducato are produced at the same factory, so may be the same electrics) has a significant parasitic discharge with the ignition in the off position. Later Pugs have an isolate position on the ignition switch - push red button in and turn key anti clockwise. Fully isolated after 5 minutes.

Secondly, EHU charging of the cab battery depends on what mains charger is fitted to the PDU. BCA (Bailey and others) make 2 versions of the mains charger, 2 outlet will be a trickle charger for the cab battery and upto 20A for the hab. battery, and a single outlet for hab. battery only.

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pappajohn said:
Maybe on eurovans but British still think caravan type build is the way to go.
One example....Brit vans STILL turn off the hab electrics when driving.....I don't think eurovans ever did
Click to expand...
Isn't this something to do with UK Construction & Use regulations ?
 
The Artilleryman said:
Later Pugs have an isolate position on the ignition switch - push red button in and turn key anti clockwise. Fully isolated after 5 minutes.
Click to expand...
Funny how they change things....
Not too long ago that was how you turned on parking lights as all lights extinguished with the ignition off and key removed.
 
I installed a 100w solar panel on my Autosleeper Cotswold EB. It plugs directly into the Sargent EC325 PSU and the built in dual solar regulator charges the leisure and cab battery simultaneously. It's an easy way to keep both batteries charged.
 
My 2004 Burstner charged the Engine Battery so just assumed my 2016 Rapido would do the same.
Moral of the story, never assume 😂 although I don’t know if it does or doesn’t.
 
my sunlight charges both on ehu but only trickle to starter batt
 
Old style alternator systems will fully charge the vehicle battery, BUT smart alternator (yes, I know it's the ECU that does the smart bit) systems are designed NOT to fully charge the vehicle battery so as to leave room for the current from regenerative braking.

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