Alde system top up

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Dec 1, 2020
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Location
Brassempouy, south west France
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78,247
MH
Hymer B878 SL
Exp
Since Feb 2020
We've noticed the Alde heating pipes in our bedroom not getting warm but the lounge is fine. Checked the Alde liquid level in the header tank and it's empty, whereas the level was OK a month ago. We are touring Spain and there doesn't appear the be any Alde dealers within striking distance of us so I'm wondering if it's OK to top up with a little clean water till we get home.
 
We've noticed the Alde heating pipes in our bedroom not getting warm but the lounge is fine. Checked the Alde liquid level in the header tank and it's empty, whereas the level was OK a month ago. We are touring Spain and there doesn't appear the be any Alde dealers within striking distance of us so I'm wondering if it's OK to top up with a little clean water till we get home.
You will probably be ok with water but for the price I’d source some g12+ fluid and top up correctly
 
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Wouldn’t recommend adding water. G12 fluid from any motor shop will do. Working that the level has dropped below the expansion tank as you may be getting air in the system, which, despite having bleed valves can be notoriously difficult to remove without the correct tools/pump. Have you started looking for possible causes of the leak of fluid. I have had two instances where fluid leaked. One was a bleed valve whose seal failed and the other was a brass ferrule that had a minute crack due to a bleed valve being over tightened.
 
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Wouldn’t recommend adding water. G12 fluid from any motor shop will do. Working that the level has dropped below the expansion tank as you may be getting air in the system, which, despite having bleed valves can be notoriously difficult to remove without the correct tools/pump. Have you started looking for possible causes of the leak of fluid. I have had two instances where fluid leaked. One was a bleed valve whose seal failed and the other was a brass ferrule that had a minute crack due to a bleed valve being over tightened.
But the G12+ fluid is mixed with de-ionised water so topping off with it should be okay for a stop gap.
 
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Thanks Lorger, very kind of you. We are in Mequineza for the fishing in the Ebro, but Tuesday we'll be heading to Benicarlo. I'm hoping to buy some G12+ locally, but failing that, certainly have it at Benicarlo.
 
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You can buy ready mixed coolant rather then buying concentrate and deionised water separately, don't know if you have pink or blue but the pink has a longer interval between changes.

MANNOL G12+ Ready to Use Coolant Antifreeze, TL774D TL774F, 10 litres https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08G58FVHK?tag=mhf04-21
 
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But the G12+ fluid is mixed with de-ionised water so topping off with it should be okay for a stop gap.
Saying it is a stop gap means you would be replacing the fluid when you could. You don’t want to have to do that without the proper pump. It is not like changing the coolant in your car radiator. The Alde fluid is recommended to be changed every five years to protect the system, so adding water only weakens your protection of the system.

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Saying it is a stop gap means you would be replacing the fluid when you could. You don’t want to have to do that without the proper pump. It is not like changing the coolant in your car radiator. The Alde fluid is recommended to be changed every five years to protect the system, so adding water only weakens your protection of the system.
Thought we were on about topping it up not a full change so no need for a pump and the recommended mix is 50% glycol and 50% distilled water so adding just the distilled water to top up ain't going to harm anything.
 
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If theheader tank has fluid in it and you can hear tge pump running then mostly likely you need to bleed the air out of the non operating heat exchangers. Any antifreeze designed for aluminium engines should work although Alde would prefer you use their stuff with greener credentials. Thats how I understand it.
 
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That's quite a bit of fluid been lost. Probably worth checking as best you can for leaks.
 
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