Advice before I splice!!!

[WESTY66]

Ok im not splicing anything but I’m after advice off you electrical gurus.
I’m going to install my Votronic MPP350 and Votronic display.
Pic1 is the controller I have at the moment in the upper locker

Pic 2 is the locker position

Pic 3 is the battery compartment directly under the locker with the controller in at floor level obviously.

and pic 4 is the perspective of locations I want to do the work in.

So far so good, now would you put the MPP350 in the locker as a straight replacement location and run any wires to it? If so would the wires from there to the batts need beefing up? Or would you relocate the MPP350 into the batt compartment and run any wires to and from it there? I was thinking at the side of hole where a cig lighter charger has been sawn out (not by me) and would I need to beef the wires up running from the SP to the MPP350 and also the short wires to the battery? I also have a battery temp sensor, where would you site that?
Finally I was thinking of mounting the control display in the Black panel above the door I’m assuming it’s the best place for it?
Sorry for the questions, I only want to do it once so needs to be right!
Thanks Ady

 

[Stealaway]

Could you not reposition (or even turn) the batteries more towards the back of the seat space. That would make any controllers more accessible at the front. I managed to drop a weight and pull string down the void behind the driver's door from the roof to the bottom of the seat cabinet. I then pulled down the solar panel wires and into the seat base. The hole for the cig lighter would probably do the same if you can fish it out.

 

[WESTY66]

Could you not reposition (or even turn) the batteries more towards the back of the seat space. That would make any controllers more accessible at the front. I managed to drop a weight and pull string down the void behind the driver's door from the roof to the bottom of the seat cabinet. I then pulled down the solar panel wires and into the seat base. The hole for the cig lighter would probably do the same if you can fish it out.

View attachment 440721

That’s very tidy Stealaway looks like I need a trip to Dronfield Unfortunately there’s a heating duct between the batts and side of box

And the EBL is fastened down too albeit at a bit of an angle
I can get any wires from the top locker to the batts and vice versa (I think)

 

[Lenny HB]

Where your existing regulator is the new one will be OK if you up the cables to 6mm sq and it would make running the display cable easier.
I would also upgrade the input cables from the solar panels they look a bit under size to me.
When buying cable be aware thin walled auto cable the mm sq size includes the insulation.

 

[WESTY66]

Where your existing regulator is the new one will be OK if you up the cables to 6mm sq and it would make running the display cable easier.
I would also upgrade the input cables from the solar panels they look a bit under size to me.
When buying cable be aware thin walled auto cable the mm sq size includes the insulation.

Thanks for that Lenny HB i also have the battery temp sensor,

where would that go in the battery compartment??
Also would I be ok running the cab battery wire that far?

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[Lenny HB]

The battery sensor needs to be next to the battery.
Wire to starter battery will be fine only charges at 1 amp a cable as small as 1.5mm sq will be fine.

 

[XxAnthxX]

WESTY66 and Stealaway a simple modification to the connections to your batteries will ballance your battery banks for an equal charge and draw from your batteries.

You only need to move one pole connector....which will be simple for you both as the batteries are side by side In your installations.

How to: Connect two batteries in parallel

Since this article was published I have received a lot of questions about connecting batteries. How To:Connect two batteries in parallel – Part 2 answers the questions asked the most. Like mo…

caravanchronicles.com

 

[Lenny HB]

WESTY66 and Stealaway a simple modification to the connections to your batteries will ballance your battery banks for an equal charge and draw from your batteries.

You only need to move one pole connector....which will be simple for you both as the batteries are side by side In your installations.

View attachment 440737

Not really important with 2 batteries right next to each other.

 

[XxAnthxX]

Not really important with 2 batteries right next to each other.

I’m only quoting what all the solar and battery sites say, they know better than me.

 

[Lenny HB]

I’m only quoting what all the solar and battery sites say, they know better than me.

It's only important with larger battery banks or it two batteries are a distance apart. When it's only two batteries and they are next to each other the difference will be negligible.

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[XxAnthxX]

It's only important with larger battery banks or it two batteries are a distance apart. When it's only two batteries and they are next to each other the difference will be negligible.

I’ll take your word for it....it was just what all the information online said when I added a battery....being quoted as best practice, simple to acheive and costing nothing extra I followed the advice.

 

[Stealaway]

Not really important with 2 batteries right next to each other.

Absolutely or 0.01 percent of sod all

I would have considered it if Burstner had left a bit more than an inch of spare cable.

 

[XxAnthxX]

Absolutely or 0.01 percent of sod all

I would have considered it if Burstner had left a bit more than an inch of spare cable.

Without your scientific calculation at hand when I did it...I had no alternative than to follow the experts advice


You had a whole inch spare.....their generosity is amazing

I was lucky as I removed the ground and fitted the Smartshunt to the original connection and new cable from the smartshunt to the other battery.

 

[TheBig1]

I really dislike seeing solar regulators, battery chargers, B2Bs and inverters shut inside cupboards without extra ventilation added. They all produce heat and that needs to dissipate easily. Also, if you are adding a battery temperature sensor, then having a heat source nearby will screw up the sensor.

In preference I would move the new controller/regulator to the left of the small locker and route the wiring to the battery box via the current boxing. And increase the size of the cables to minimise losses plus include a fuse/trip switch before the regulator for ease of servicing and working on the electrics later

 

[Stealaway]

I really dislike seeing solar regulators, battery chargers, B2Bs and inverters shut inside cupboards without extra ventilation added. They all produce heat and that needs to dissipate easily.

I did actually consider the heat problem.
The 1000w inverter is also in there and I did fit a vent. There is a void under the false floor to suc the cool fresh air from.

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[Rob Turner]

First job, i’d sort the wiring to and from your regulator as it looks to small to me and fuse it accordingly.
I would then keep the controller in that same cupboard and if there is room,put the display over the door like you say. If there isn’t enough room you could also put that in the same cupboard. Votronic do a base for the controller if you aren’t fitting flush.

This is only my opinion though.

 

[WESTY66]

First job, i’d sort the wiring to and from your regulator as it looks to small to me and fuse it accordingly.
I would then keep the controller in that same cupboard and if there is room,put the display over the door like you say. If there isn’t enough room you could also put that in the same cupboard. Votronic do a base for the controller if you aren’t fitting flush.

This is only my opinion though.

Yes, thanks, the keep it in the locker idea seems to be the easiest option, I have run some bigger cables up (but forgot to run the trickle cable up for the cab battery)! I do have the base for the display but I’d like to fit flush above the door if possible

 

[WESTY66]

As a side note, I’m now thinking of adding another 2x100w solar panels would it be wise to do it now or can they be retrofitted after I have installed all this? Also is there any loom adapters to run 3 panels into the controller? I’d like to fix the panels side by side or end to end so I can run wiring under them and just use the existing entry point on the roof to eliminate any visible conduit, if that makes any sense

I think I would find it easier to throw a clutch in it!! Spanner’s I can live with but electricity is the devils work

 

[funflair]

Yes, thanks, the keep it in the locker idea seems to be the easiest option, I have run some bigger cables up (but forgot to run the trickle cable up for the cab battery)! I do have the base for the display but I’d like to fit flush above the door if possible

That seems like a plan, the cable from the regulator carries more amps so thats the one to beef up.

As a side note, I’m now thinking of adding another 2x100w solar panels would it be wise to do it now or can they be retrofitted after I have installed all this? Also is there any loom adapters to run 3 panels into the controller? I’d like to fix the panels side by side or end to end so I can run wiring under them and just use the existing entry point on the roof to eliminate any visible conduit, if that makes any sense

I think I would find it easier to throw a clutch in it!! Spanner’s I can live with but electricity is the devils work

What have you got up there now as the regulator will handle 350w, if you add more panels run the cables down to the area of the regulator and then combine them in a block or terminal post then run to regulator.

You can also add Bluetooth monitoring if you are that way inclined, search for Votronic S-BC.

 

[WESTY66]

That seems like a plan, the cable from the regulator carries more amps so thats the one to beef up.



What have you got up there now as the regulator will handle 350w, if you add more panels run the cables down to the area of the regulator and then combine them in a block or terminal post then run to regulator.

You can also add Bluetooth monitoring if you are that way inclined, search for Votronic S-BC.

Hi Martin, I have a 100w up there now and to be honest I don’t know how old it is or even if it’s 100w! For the sake of £90 I might just put 3 new ones up. I am however governed by roof space to the narrower 540 ones as opposed to the 670’s. Would I need Bluetooth monitoring as it has the votronic display with it, and I’d probably only look at it if something was apparently wrong. I had seen some SP adapter leads like 3-1 and wondered if I needed those but if I can run all three down the hole already there above the locker and join them up in the dry I think that would be better and eliminate any moisture in the plugs if they was on the roof.

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[St3v3]

The battery sensor needs to be next to the battery.

Anything I've seen this would go on to the battery terminal itself. If you think about it anything else is insulating the sensor from the internal temperature it's trying to measure.

 

[funflair]

Hi Martin, I have a 100w up there now and to be honest I don’t know how old it is or even if it’s 100w! For the sake of £90 I might just put 3 new ones up. I am however governed by roof space to the narrower 540 ones as opposed to the 670’s. Would I need Bluetooth monitoring as it has the votronic display with it, and I’d probably only look at it if something was apparently wrong. I had seen some SP adapter leads like 3-1 and wondered if I needed those but if I can run all three down the hole already there above the locker and join them up in the dry I think that would be better and eliminate any moisture in the plugs if they was on the roof.

No you don't "need" the bluetooth monitoring when I put 3 panels on our Flair I didn't want to use the 3-1 plug as then it pushed everything into one cable but then your problem is getting 6 cables sealed and through the roof, I made 6 way box and put cable entry glands in but you could use an off the shelf box take the cables in and then combine inside in the dry and just before the controller.

I left the one existing panel on the Flair but with it's own controller, it was old and Poly not Mono crystalline but it worked well to be fair.

 

[WESTY66]

Anything I've seen this would go on to the battery terminal itself. If you think about it anything else is insulating the sensor from the internal temperature it's trying to measure.

I did think that as the terminal thingy looks like it would go on a battery clamp bolt or similar! Go on I’ll ask, positive or negative terminals?
I really must be the most retarded person on here regarding electrics!

 

[St3v3]

I did think that as the terminal thingy looks like it would go on a battery clamp bolt or similar! Go on I’ll ask, positive or negative terminals?

I would be surprised if it matters, but is there no mention in the instructions?

 

[funflair]

I would be surprised if it matters, but is there no mention in the instructions?

I can't find it in the Votronic instructions but have read -ve.

EDIT

This is from Votronic battery charger/solar reg instructions,

"T T": Measuring input for the temperature sensor of the supply battery "Board I"
Connect the sensor (included in the standard delivery scope) to the terminals "T T" (any polarity). Further details concerning the functions of the sensor can be drawn from the paragraph "Battery Temperature Sensor" and from the characteristic lines of charging.

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[St3v3]

Here you go:

Installation: The thermal contact of sensor and battery "Board I" (inside temperature) should be well. Thus, it should be screwed down to the negative pole or positive pole of the battery.

 

[funflair]

Here you go:

Sorry I edited after your post, it took me 10 minutes to find

 

[Lenny HB]

really dislike seeing solar regulators, battery chargers, B2Bs and inverters shut inside cupboards without extra ventilation added. They all produce heat and that needs to dissipate easily. Also, if you are adding a battery temperature sensor, then having a heat source nearby will screw up the sensor.

You will love Hymers then, the batteries are installed next to the Truma Combi.

 

[autorouter]

I had seen some SP adapter leads like 3-1 and wondered if I needed those but if I can run all three down the hole already there above the locker and join them up in the dry I think that would be better and eliminate any moisture in the plugs if they was on the roof.

The solar panel wiring plugs (MC4 connectors) are fully weatherproof, and UV resistant, so no worries about joining them in parallel on top of the roof and using only one wire through the roof. The 2-1 and 3-1 adapters are the normal way of doing this.

 

[autorouter]

I did think that as the terminal thingy looks like it would go on a battery clamp bolt or similar! Go on I’ll ask, positive or negative terminals?

I'd guess that the battery terminal lug is just a convenient way of mounting the temperature sensor where it will pick up the battery temperature. I'd guess that neither of the wires has any electrical connection to the battery lug. You could check it with a meter, by measuring the resistance between each wire and the terminal lug.

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