2013 Boxer fuel filter housing (2 Viewers)

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At present have the plastic fuel filter housing with no wiring connector mounted to the housing top as per the first photo.

1682671962845.png


I'm looking to buy a replacement, but what's to stop me from fitting one with the connector mounted to the housing top as per the second photo as they are a lot cheaper to buy?
As I do not have the wiring or connector to the top connector, I see not reason not to use one, unless you know different.

1682672579422.png
 
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Do you not have a water in fuel warning light on the dash?

If that's what the connector on top of the filter housing is for, then no as the filter housing presently does not have the connector or wiring.
The warning light position on the instrument cluster is there, but this may be just generic and not used.
 
Feb 19, 2018
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Why not buy the cheaper one and see if your original cap fits it?
It looks as if you can just replace the green bit but I'm just guessing as I have never seen your original without the plug before?
 
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Why not buy the cheaper one and see if your original cap fits it?
It looks as if you can just replace the green bit but I'm just guessing as I have never seen your original without the plug before?

I had thought of that, but as I wanted to do a service before we head off to Italy for 7 weeks, and I wanted to keep the chance of a leaky fuel filter housing to a minimum by not opening up the present one to change the filter element.

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Apr 22, 2018
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The water in the fuel light connection is the connection at the base of the unit.
 
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OK I've had a thought, perhaps the green top is a heating element? Both have a connector at the bottom which is most likely the moisture float/sensor/gubbings.
 
Aug 18, 2014
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I'd go for it.
Why not buy the cheaper one and see if your original cap fits it?
It looks as if you can just replace the green bit but I'm just guessing as I have never seen your original without the plug before?
as saidyou do not want to open the filtr as it is then likely to leak without ,or evn with , the the correct tool to do it up.
 
Dec 2, 2019
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The top connector is for a fuel temperature sensor, the bottom connector is the water in fuel sensor (y)

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I'd go for it.

as saidyou do not want to open the filtr as it is then likely to leak without ,or evn with , the the correct tool to do it up.

I have the correct tool to torque down the cover ring, and I have before now replaced the filter element in the present housing, but as you say not guaranteed not to leak and sod's law says this will be the time.
 
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Many thanks for your input guys.
We have a month before we cross the water so I'll give it a go and carry the old one as a spare just in case.

Cleaned and re-oiled the K&N air filter earlier today.
Got fed up with replacing the crap Phillips screws that hold the air filter housing lid down, so I have now replaced them with 4.8mm x 32mm hex head roofing bolts. (y)

1682703301250.png


1682703320729.png
 
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LIFE MEMBER
Sep 16, 2016
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Near the junction of the A14 and A1, Cambs
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Since 2010
Where did you get the roofing bolts from?

They came next day.
As they do not have a wasted section as have the Phillips ones, I just ran a 5mm drill through each of the lid holes for clearance so they pull down.

 
Feb 19, 2018
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Many thanks for your input guys.
We have a month before we cross the water so I'll give it a go and carry the old one as a spare just in case.

Cleaned and re-oiled the K&N air filter earlier today.
Got fed up with replacing the crap Phillips screws that hold the air filter housing lid down, so I have now replaced them with 4.8mm x 32mm hex head roofing bolts. (y)

View attachment 744902

View attachment 744903
Exactly what I did. Far better than those Phillip screws! I think I got mine from Screwfix?

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