12v TV issues

I had similar flickering and failing TV. Cut off the factory 12v plug and fit a better one and problem.solved for £8
 
TheBig1 said:
the solution is to fit a buck converter with stabilised output into the feed wire to the socket. Any voltage drop in the wire or caused by the pump pulling the voltage down will affect some 12v TVs

the buck converter will increase the input voltage when below 12v and give a stabilised constant 12v output. Simple to install too, just take the 2 wires from the back of the socket and attach to the input and 2 new wires from the output to the socket. One suited to this task is likely the size of a matchbox
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Any chance you could post a link to what I need? Looking online and I don't have a Scooby! Thanks
 
denisejoe said:
What size are your batteries they seem to be dropping fast one could be duff
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The batteries are only a couple of months old. Are they dropping fast? I don't have anything to compare to. We did 5 days without ehu no problems except for the TV which we had to use the inverter to power the tv on 240 or run the engine to get tv to work on 12v. I'm doubtful it's battery issue. What reading should I get direct from the battery? Is 12.65 low?
 
BigBetty said:
Hi Mike
Ok so just tested this. I think so measuring DC V at a 12v socket with the ehu and the tv and heating few lights on.
I get 13.16 then i disconnect ehu and it drops straight away to 12.4 tv fails then checked again and its 12.1
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Coming of 240v and 13.16 to drop to 12.4 then 12.1 seems a problem to me

even new batteries can go down

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that voltage is at rest allowing a short period after disconnection fro any charge or drain source.
1580587914665.png
 
ctc said:
We had exactly the same problem, as soon as 12v is used elsewhere in the van the 12v sockets suffered first. Use a meter when there is no load and the voltage was a steady 12.6, plug something in and we were lucky to get12v. Tv now hard wired to EBL and recorder via inverter, all works fine.
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Hi, Glad its not just me. Sorry whats EBL? Thanks
 
EBL stands for Elektroblock which is a type of 12V electrical distribution unit made by Schaudt in Germany.
 
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BigBetty said:
Hoping someone with experience can help me.

I have a new 12v smart TV and also brand new leisure batteries x2 with solar.

The TV works perfect on 12v if we are on ehu or the engine is running.
At night with no ehu it flickers and cuts off.

If I put the inverter on and plug it into a 3 pin socket it works fine but this appears to hammer the batteries.

Is my TV faulty?

Thanks
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So thought I would post an update to this as it may help someone in the future.

Having tried everything suggested I had frankly given up

On a recent trip heading to Calais to catch the ferry we lost all driving electrics and had to call breakdown. When he jumped it he was only measuring 8v at the battery so diagnosed alternator fault. Fitted us a new battery and I drove like a loon for 90 mins in failing light with no lights on to make the ferry before it went flat. Only it didn't. Once on the ferry I checked the display to find it was fully charged. Alternator fine and charging!

Turns out my voltage drop issue now also solved!! So I had been driving around with a knackered cab battery for 9 months. Which was going un noticed as the 2 hab batteries and solar supported it. It was also causing the voltage drop. 😆

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Glad you have it sorted at last. Volt drop was the essence of it not the TV.
So I think that you are suggesting that the starter battery was loosing charge every time you parked up and thereby running down the hab batteries which were supported by the solar. Hmmm
The clue would have been to ask what happened to the hab batteries with the solar turned off- presumably they would also have lost charge. Not knowing what control panel or setup you have that can be hard to diagnose but I know that my set up only couples the starter to the hab circuits when the hab voltage is above 13.6, below that and the starter battery has to fend for itself
I wonder if the vots coming off the saolr were confusing it, but in any case it should have dropped out when it got dark.
Something to look into is just how the battery systems are interconnected perhaps the connecting relay has just stuck/welded itself closed?
Suggest something like the NASA BM1 battery monitor at least you can see whats happening with volts and currents around the hab batteries
Mike
 

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