12v splice/ T connectors

[G1969]

I want to tap into a 12v supply to power a small switched permanent blue tooth speaker amplifier in the rear bedroom, but where I have found to connect to, it's a bit tight and there is little room to cut and splice the 12v wires. I have seen splice connects on amazon but are these suitable or not and or can anyone recommend any?

Thanks
Glyn

 

[bigtwin]

If you post a link to the ones that you refer to folks might be able to comment.

Ian

 

[St3v3]

These thing? Avoid!

 

[Jev88]

I use Wago Connectors whenever I can now.

 

[G1969]

These thing? Avoid!

View attachment 1015574

Yes these were the type, but further reading I have concluded the same, thanks

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[Lenny HB]

I prefer this type of wago connector, they grip a bit better than the other type.

 

[rod_vw]

I would be happy using Wago type connectors but very unhappy with Scotch Lock type. Mainly due to the latter frequently damaging the conductors causing premature failure.

 

[Tombola]

These thing? Avoid!

View attachment 1015574

i second this...dont bother

 

[Two on Tour]

Wago connectors are my usual go to as well.

 

[WESTY66]

I was ORDERED by uncle Lenny HB to cleanse myself and the van electrics of all scotch locks and enter the world of Wago connectors, I haven’t looked back

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[Just smiffy]

I was ORDERED by uncle Lenny HB to cleanse myself and the van electrics of all scotch locks and enter the world of Wago connectors, I haven’t looked back

They are easier too….

 

[IRHP]

Insulation displacement connectors are common place in telecoms but that's because they don't use multistranded cable. The very way they cut into the Insulation and the conductors mean there's a good chance the multi strand conductors get cut. Wagos are brilliant.

 

[Bill-H]

The OP was saying that there is little space to cut and splice wires, do Wago's need the wires cutting, insulation baring back etc to make a T-type connection - or any type of connection?

 

[Gromett]

Wago's all day everyday.

 

[autorouter]

The OP was saying that there is little space to cut and splice wires, do Wago's need the wires cutting, insulation baring back etc to make a T-type connection - or any type of connection?

If you want to splice a single wire into an existing wire, and there is little space, you could use a Wago type 224-112 connector. It has two push-fit entry points at one end, and a single spring lever entry point opposite. So you could have one wire going in and out in-line, plus another wire that you want to splice to it.

Wago 224 3 Way Lighting Connectors

Wago 224 3 way lighting connectors, 0.5 - 2.5mm², 24A, 400V, available as pack of 15 or 100.• Easy to use• Time saving installation• 1 x test port for easy testing• Can be used within WAGOBOX Light junction box (code 85587)• Vibration proof lighting connectors• Reusable• Conductor size: 0.5 -...

www.toolstation.com

They are rated for lighting circuits, so not as heavy-duty as the others mentioned so far, but should be OK for a speaker circuit.

Don't confuse it with the Wago type 224-101, which has only one in and one out entry point, and looks very similar.

You would have to cut the wire, and strip back 11mm of insulation. The wire ends would be nearly touching in-line inside the connector, so not much extra length required. Better than the other types that are all single-sided. And the inline type 221-2411 is only good for joining two wires, not splicing a third wire.

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[Lenny HB]

The OP was saying that there is little space to cut and splice wires, do Wago's need the wires cutting, insulation baring back etc to make a T-type connection - or any type of connection?

Yes you have cut and strip the wire.

 

[rod_vw]

The OP was saying that there is little space to cut and splice wires, do Wago's need the wires cutting, insulation baring back etc to make a T-type connection - or any type of connection?

Yes, but there isn't a reliable way of doing the job without cutting.

As above (somewhere) insulation displacement (Scotch Lock type) are simply not the right type of connector for stranded wires.

 

[MisterB]

Another plus for wago's but is there an option to make a soldered connection? That way you don't need to actually cut the original wire?

 

[Bill-H]

Another plus for wago's but is there an option to make a soldered connection? That way you don't need to actually cut the original wire?

Good idea, how would you ensure the joint was insulated after making the joint?, you couldn't use shrink-wrap tube but perhaps a hot glue gun to cover the soldered joint?

 

[Sasbo]

Good idea, how would you ensure the joint was insulated after making the joint?, you couldn't use shrink-wrap tube but perhaps a hot glue gun to cover the soldered joint?

I've used these with good results.

https://amzn.eu/d/8hXc9Ch

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[Bill-H]

I've used these with good results.

https://amzn.eu/d/8hXc9Ch

Yes, I've used those as well, and carry a couple in the spares box, they're easy to use to make a soldered join and add very little 'bulk' when using in a confined space, just need a fag lighter flame to activate. OP was asking about making a T-join in confined space so would still need to cut and bare wires to use those and put 2 wires in one end.

 

[MisterB]

I've used these with good results.

https://amzn.eu/d/8hXc9Ch

ive never seen those before, but they look very useful - thanks for pointing them out.

 

[autorouter]

Good idea, how would you ensure the joint was insulated after making the joint?, you couldn't use shrink-wrap tube but perhaps a hot glue gun to cover the soldered joint?

Soldered joints are not a good idea in a vehicle, due to long-term reliability problems, even though the electrical connection is very good. The stress points are exactly where the solder wicks along the stranded wire and then stops. Best to ensure those stress points are not susceptible to vibration. Some extra support like a hot glue gun covering the relevant points would go a long way to countering the stress.

 

[Bill-H]

Soldered joints are not a good idea in a vehicle, due to long-term reliability problems, even though the electrical connection is very good. The stress points are exactly where the solder wicks along the stranded wire and then stops. Best to ensure those stress points are not susceptible to vibration. Some extra support like a hot glue gun covering the relevant points would go a long way to countering the stress.

Good point. With a straight 2 wire joint, I guess a properly sized section of heat-shrink tube would offer support over a soldered joint

 

[G1969]

I use Wago Connectors whenever I can

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[G1969]

Thanks for all your replies, I had planned to try and tap into the USB outlet as you see from the pictures- not much wire, any body know how these come out or if I choose to still use this will I have to cut them?

 

[MisterB]

Thanks for all your replies, I had planned to try and tap into the USB outlet as you see from the pictures- not much wire, any body know how these come out or if I choose to still use this will I have to cut them?



View attachment 1015913

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although others have suggested that soldered connections on a motorhome are not a good idea, I would say it all depends on the circumstances ..... adding some form of additional support is a good idea, but on the example youre showing, if you cant find the other end of the wire, i would be comfortable to keep the wire itself in one piece but strip some insulation off and solder a connection - its going to be awkward if you cant find some slack in the cable, whatever you do ...

perhaps the best solution is to locate a different supply ...?

 

[Lenny HB]

The USB socket looks like a Dometic, the wire tails are about 9" long and terminate in push-on connectors.
I wonder if they are trapped on something.